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Washing Machine Repair - Replacing the Split Ring (GE Part # WH02X10265) - YouTube
Channel: PartSelect
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Hi, it's Steve from PartSelect.
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Today we're going to show you how to change
the split ring on your washer and it's a pretty
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easy job.
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Let me show you how we do it.
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Now, to do this repair we are going to need
a variety of tools.
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We'll start with a stiff putty knife.
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A quarter inch and 5/16th nut driver, a flat
blade screwdriver, a 7/16th wrench or socket
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and latchet.
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A pair of needle nosed pliers and a 1 and
11/16th spanner wrench and large hammer.
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Let's get to it.
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Now before we begin this repair, we are going
to need to disconnect the power so pull the
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plug to the washer.
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We're also going to want to pull that washer
far enough forward so we can remove the fill
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hoses from the back so be sure to turn off
the water supply before you remove the hoses.
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Once we've done that, we'll take our putty
knife and we're going to go in this gap between
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the front panel and the top panel and you'll
locate a hidden spring in there.
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Simply depress it with the putty knife and
pull the front panel forward.
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And tilt the front panel forward and lift
it off the two tabs on the bottom that's secured
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there.
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You can set that aside, next with our quarter
inch nut driver, we're going to add two screws
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that secure the top panel to the cabinet.
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Next we're going to remove three screws that
secure the console to the back panel.
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So using our quarter inch nut driver, remove
those three screws.
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Now with the screws removed we can tilt that
console forward and just slide it a bit to
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the right to disengage it from the main top
and then we're going to lay that down.
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Next with our needle nosed pliers, we're going
to pull the air dome tube off of the pressure
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switch and just gently pull that hose to disengage
it.
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Now we can pull that panel back out of the
way.
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Just hang from the back of the machine.
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Now I'm going to take the main top and just
lift it up, couple of inches.
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Next we're going to raise the lid to its open
position.
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Then we're going to depress the tab on the
back of that lid switch towards the front
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and then we can push the lid switch up through
the opening and you can pull that switch towards
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the back of the washer.
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Release it and drop it through the opening.
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Now close the lid, then we can remove the
main top.
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Next we can set that console on top of the
washer again and then we're going to remove
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the quarter inch screws that secure that mounting
bracket to the washer frame.
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We'll pull that off.
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Remove the back panel and just let it hang
a little back in the washer.
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Ok now take the ending caps, slide those out
of the way, and we can take the control panel
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and the mounting bracket and just let those
completely out of the way.
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Next we're going to remove the agitator from
the tub.
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So we're just going to reach in and grab the
skirt of the agitator, the very bottom of
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it and give a sharp pull upwards.
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Just pop that off of the dry block, remove
it and we'll set that aside.
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Our next with our 7/16th wrench or socket
and ratchet we're going to remove the bolt
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on top of the agitator dry block and we can
pull that dry block off of the agitator shaft
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and we'll set that aside.
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Now next we'll take our 5/16th nut driver,
we're going to remove the screws that secure
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the suspension straps to the tub cover.
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Remove this screw and then lift the strap
off of the tub cover tab, we'll inspect those
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straps as well to make sure that they're in
good shape and if they show any signs of wear
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or cracking, we'll replace those at the same
time.
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Next we're going to release the tabs that
hold the tub cover to the outer tub so just
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press down slightly on the tub cover and then
pull the tabs away from the tub to release
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them.
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Then we can lift the tub cover free.
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Set it aside.
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Now with our 1 and 11/16th spanner wrench,
we'll set that over the tub nut and because
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it is a left hand thread, we're going to turn
it clockwise to loosen it.
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So with a bare hammer, give it a good sharp
rap.
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Completely remove the tub nut and set that
aside.
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We can now lift straight up on the interbasket
and remove it from the washer.
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So next we'll take a flat blade screwdriver
and gently spread that split ring just enough
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so it'll slide up off of the shaft.
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We'll discard our old split ring.
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Install a new one.
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Ok, we'll just slide that down over that shaft
and if it's a little tight just carefully
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spread it with a flat blade screw driver and
make sure it bottoms out on that washer.
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Next we'll put the inter spin basket back
into position.
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So we'll let that sit right on top of that
split ring.
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Just rock it back and forth till it centers
itself.
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We'll take our new tub nut and remembering
that it is a left hand thread, we're going
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to turn counter clockwise to tighten it.
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So just gently rock that tub back and forth
to tighten that knot.
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Now we'll use our spanner wrench and we do
need to tighten that knot securely.
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Now installing the tub cover we want to first
of all make sure that the gasket is in good
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shape all around it.
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Then we're going to locate the bleach inlet
in the left front corner.
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So tuck it down in, around the top of the
cabinet, making sure that we keep the tabs
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outside of the outer tub.
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Then we'll use the large forked locators to
make sure that we have it properly in position.
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Now once we have it lined up, just press the
tabs on over the hooks on the outer tub.
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Making sure that you keep these things straight.
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Keeping all of them engaged.
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Making sure all the tabs snap firmly into
position and it's locked firmly on.
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Next we'll install the tub dampening straps
and with our 5/16th nut driver we'll replace
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the retaining screws.
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Now we're ready to put the control panel mounting
bracket back into position.
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So we'll just rotate that around.
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Sit it roughly into position, we'll lay the
control panel across the front of the tub.
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We'll need to install the end caps, make sure
the hooks fit into the rectangular opens of
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the cabinet.
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So we'll put one screw on either side just
to hold that in position.
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Next we'll rotate the back panel up and slide
that in the three tabs at the back.
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Then we'll put the two screws into secure
that.
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Make sure that that back panel lines up with
the end caps before we tighten the screws.
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We can now tilt the control panel back up
into position and we'll leave it there until
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we put the main top on and when we put the
main top on we want to make sure we engage
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the slotted holes at the back of the main
top.
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With the two hooks in the top frame.
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Now next we're going to raise the lid.
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Just tilt up in front of that top panel enough
that we can position the lid switch up through
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the opening in the main top.
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Keeping the wire harness towards the front,
we'll hook it in and press down on the back
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of it till it snaps into place and we'll reach
in between the top in the frame.
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We'll snap the wire harness retainer into
the frame.
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Then we can lower that main top into position.
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We can close the lid.
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Uh next we're going to slide the air dome
tube along the left hand side of the cabinet
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up through the opening in the frame, making
sure we clear the tub dampening straps.
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We're going to lay that console down flat.
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Pull the air dome tube clear.
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Fully inserted onto the pressure switch.
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Now we'll line up the two tabs on the bottom
of the control panel with the slotted openings
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in the main top.
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We'll slide that to the left.
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When it's in position, then we can replace
the three quarter inch hex head screws across
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the back.
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Make sure that the end caps fit around that
back panel first.
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Uh next we'll replace the two quarter inch
hex head screws that secure the main top to
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the cabinet.
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Next we will replace the front panel and we'll
make sure that we line up those two slider
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rings on the bottom with the tabs on the base
frame and then as we tilt that panel forward
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into position, make sure that the little locating
pins line up with the openings in the front
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panel and just snap it into place.
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Now we can replace the dry block for the agitator.
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It is splined on the inside.
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To fit the agitator shaft, just drop it down
into position.
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We'll take our 7/16th bolt and then with a
ratchet or wrench, we'll tighten that securely.
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We'll have to hold the tub in position while
we do that.
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Next we'll take our agitator and we'll put
it back in place and you will note that there
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are some plastic tabs that hold that to the
dry block.
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There are also four spline guides that line
up with the exterior of that dry block and
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those guys also correspond with the fins on
the bottom of the agitator to help you line
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up easier.
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So set it over the dry block.
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Slide it down into place and give it a sharp
push to lock it into position.
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We're now ready to reconnect our fill hoses
and reconnect the power and repair is complete.
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Told you it was an easy job.
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Thanks for watching and good luck with your
repair.
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