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How to Pick BETTER Wheels & Tires for YOUR Car - YouTube
Channel: Donut Media
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it's probably the easiest way to change
[1]
the way your car looks and the way it
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handles today I'm going to show you how
[5]
to pick the right wheels for your car
[7]
including size material offset
[9]
calculation all that jazz and then I'll
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show you how to pick the right tire for
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whatever it is you're doing drifting or
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carving the canyons or whatever I'll
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show you how to understand tire then
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we'll cover how to install them and have
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you off tripping nasty turns and the
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canyons in no time
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I'm Zach and this is money pit let's do
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it let's talk tires this is the stock
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wheel tire from the Miata and first I
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want to go over all the different
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numbers that are stamped into the side
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of the tire so we can understand all the
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things that the tire is trying to tell
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us so we'll start with the size that big
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batch in numbers the 185 6014 what do
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these numbers mean the first number the
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185 that's the width in millimeters so
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that's 185 millimeters wide the second
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number the 60 that is the sidewall
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profile it's called an aspect ratio and
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it's completely dependent on the width
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of the tire 60 means that the sidewall
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is 60% of the width of the tire so a 60
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sidewall isn't the same on every tire
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it's always dependent on the width
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remember that then you've got the last
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number 14 that's the size of the hole
[78]
and tire so you know what size wheel to
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put in it that's pretty simple sizing
[82]
you get a nice combination of metric and
[85]
imperial measuring systems which is
[86]
always fun but then after that there is
[88]
a couple numbers and a letter
[90]
we've got 82 here what is that that is
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your load rating basically it's a system
[95]
that operates on numbers the higher the
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number the higher the load rating you
[99]
can look up the chart to see
[100]
specifically what the load rating is but
[102]
most tires say it somewhere 1040 seven
[106]
pounds is the max load rating on this
[108]
tires also most tires will say on the
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tire specifically what the load rating
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is in pounds so next to our load rating
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on the tire a thousand forty seven
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pounds we've also got our max inflation
[119]
since fifty-one psi listen that is not
[121]
what you're supposed to drive on that's
[123]
just the max pressure that the tire can
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handle you need to check your driver's
[127]
door jamb or the owners manual for the
[129]
actual pressure that you're supposed to
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run in the tires
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while you're driving for cars it's
[134]
usually somewhere in the ballpark of
[135]
like 30 to 35 psi trucks large trucks
[138]
often closer to 60 to 80 psi but if you
[142]
drive on your tires max pressure you're
[144]
gonna get very bad tire wear entire life
[146]
so anyway back to where we were the
[149]
letter on the end here what is that that
[151]
is another rating it's your speed rating
[153]
if you want to go fast you got to have
[155]
tires that can handle it if you spend
[157]
time at a speed above your tires rating
[159]
the tire can start to delaminate and
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basically come apart it mostly goes from
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A to Z with Z being the fastest rating
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at 186 plus miles per but if the tire is
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rated to over 149 they'll add a Z into
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the size and instead of this just being
[173]
an hour it'll say Zr but to get your
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specific speed rating you look just past
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the load rating this tire is an H which
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means this tire is good to 130 miles an
[181]
hour all right so that's a big one down
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now we know how to read the size of a
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tire it's load rating and it's speed
[186]
rating but we are not done yet we've got
[189]
some more dot standardized specs the US
[192]
Department of Transportation that is in
[194]
there highway arm the NHTSA put forth a
[197]
set of standards to measure critical
[198]
functions of tires for consumers to make
[200]
better more informed decisions when
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buying new tires
[203]
those standards are called the uniform
[205]
tire quality grade standards or you tqg
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they've standardized three measurements
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tread wear traction and temperature
[213]
let's start with tread wear it's a bit
[215]
of a convoluted one but let's talk it
[217]
out the treadwear rating is intended to
[220]
be a comparative rating of the wear rate
[222]
of a tire or how fast and easily the
[225]
rubber will wear down this means that
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the treadwear rating assigned to a tire
[228]
means nothing in and of itself because
[230]
it's comparative it means that in theory
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a 200 treadwear rating tire will last
[234]
twice as long as a 100 tread wear tire
[237]
so that's all pretty simple but it's
[238]
important to note that the Department of
[240]
Transportation is not the one conducting
[242]
any of these tests they leave it up to
[244]
each tire manufacturer to conduct
[246]
testing on their own tires against a
[248]
standardized course monitoring tire the
[250]
treadwear rating is often honestly
[252]
closer to a marketing tool than an
[254]
actual consumer information tool you'll
[255]
get a good idea of the longevity of
[257]
tires relative to other tires made by
[260]
the
[260]
manufacture but don't expect 400
[263]
treadwear Bridgestone Tire to
[264]
necessarily last as long as a 400
[266]
treadwear Goodyear or something else as
[268]
a general rule though the the lower the
[270]
number the grippier and stickier the
[272]
tire will be and some high-performance
[274]
tires will even rock like a zero
[275]
treadwear rating because we don't care
[277]
about tread wear anyway the next you tqg
[280]
standard is traction and this test is a
[283]
lot less legible and much more sciency
[285]
the goal with this test is to measure
[287]
tires straight line wet traction the way
[290]
they perform this test is they stick
[292]
some tires to be tested on an unpowered
[294]
axle that has all sorts of sciency
[296]
instruments on it and then they pull
[298]
that test axle behind a truck at a
[299]
constant 40 miles an hour on wet asphalt
[302]
and wet concrete the brakes on the axle
[304]
are then yanked and as the tire skids
[306]
along the instruments on the axle
[307]
measure the tires coefficient of
[309]
friction or then braking g-forces baby
[311]
so this test is mostly about how sticky
[314]
a rubber compound to give and tire is
[316]
made out of there are four traction
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grades C B a and double-a each grade
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correlates to a threshold g-force
[323]
but I'm not going to sit here and tell
[324]
you those numbers because anyway on to
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the last you tqg standard which is
[329]
temperature and it's pretty simple
[331]
although it would probably be more
[333]
accurate to call it a temperature
[334]
resistance rating as it measures the
[336]
tires resistance to the buildup of heat
[338]
or its ability to dissipate heat at
[340]
speed we tires blow apart in chunks like
[342]
in drifting for example it's usually
[344]
because they got too op doing all them
[346]
skids there are three grades of temp a B
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and C a means that the tire can maintain
[350]
a speed of 115 plus miles per hour
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without generating too much heat B means
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100 to 115 miles per hour C means 85 to
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100 anything below that cannot be sold
[362]
here in the USA but pretty much every
[365]
real tire being sold these days has an a
[367]
temp rating
[368]
[Music]
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okay moving right along here is
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something that you won't see on every
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tire you can see here it says outside
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because this is the outside of the tire
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sometimes it'll say rotation with an
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arrow and that's because these tires are
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asymmetric which doesn't mean they're
[386]
not round it just means that the tread
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is not symmetric side to side and that's
[390]
done for a number of reasons sometimes
[392]
water evacuation or handling
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characteristics and so these tires are
[396]
just an inside-outside so it really only
[398]
matters for the person installing the
[400]
tires onto the wheels but then this can
[403]
go on either side of the car can't
[404]
really go wrong but for rotation
[406]
specific tires you need to pay attention
[407]
to which side of the car you put them on
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and how they're mounted on the wheel
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bonus points if both of those people are
[413]
you the guy installing them and mounting
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them
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let's talk dot code what is that well
[419]
kind of like your car has a VIN your
[421]
tire kinda has a 10 tire identification
[423]
number of sorts the beginning of the dot
[425]
code has a bunch of seemingly random
[426]
numbers and letters which denote where
[428]
the tire was made its size and some
[430]
other manufacturers specific info but
[433]
what we really care about are the last
[434]
four numbers attached to the dot code
[436]
and they're only gonna be on one side of
[437]
the tire so keep that in mind the last
[439]
four digits are how we can determine
[441]
when the tires were made 37 the first
[444]
two digits are the week that the tire
[446]
was made in a given year the the given
[449]
year is the last two digits so here 37
[451]
10 means that these tires were made the
[453]
37th week of 2010 which also means that
[456]
10 years old which means they're way too
[457]
old general rule of thumb is that after
[460]
six years tires should kind of be
[461]
retired over time tires dry out and they
[464]
lose their flexibility and they start to
[465]
crack and they become dangerous so you
[467]
can check your dot code whenever you're
[468]
looking at a car it's an easy way to
[470]
check how old your tires are okay now we
[471]
understand all of the basics about tires
[474]
and what they're trying to tell us but
[475]
that's only half of the equation the
[477]
other half is the wheels they're equally
[480]
important in my opinion you got to get
[482]
them right especially if you want good
[484]
fitment so there's kind of a lot to talk
[486]
about with wheels so let's
[494]
okay so we'll start with the basics size
[499]
because that matters this is a 14 by I
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think five and a half inch wheel which
[504]
means that this is 14 inches in diameter
[506]
by five and a half inches in width the
[508]
wheel pretty simple right
[509]
but there's another parameter that we
[512]
give it about offset what is it I know
[515]
it can be scary but let me break it down
[516]
and a little bit later I'll show you how
[518]
to calculate and measure your offset and
[520]
what you can fit for a new wheel so you
[522]
can get that fitment that you've all
[523]
been lusting after so offset it's the
[527]
measurement of the offset from Center
[529]
remember that offset from center of the
[531]
mounting face of the wheel the outside
[533]
or the face of the wheel is the positive
[535]
side and the empty barrel the negative
[538]
space is the negative side so imagine an
[541]
imaginary line through the center of the
[543]
wheel that is zero
[544]
now insert your offset these are a plus
[548]
45 so from the center of the wheel plus
[551]
45 millimeters which means towards the
[554]
positive side or the face and that's
[555]
where our wheels of mounting face will
[557]
be the further you move this mounting
[559]
face towards the face of the wheel and
[560]
the more of the wheel gets tucked or
[562]
sucked into the car and the more weak
[564]
your fitment is obviously the more
[565]
negative you go the more the wheel pokes
[567]
out because you move that mounting face
[569]
towards the inside of the wheel and so
[571]
the more the wheel pokes out and the
[572]
more gangster fitment you can get
[574]
alright how about the bolt pattern that
[576]
is the pattern of the bolts
[579]
Amiata has a four by 100 bolt pattern
[581]
that means that there are four lugs
[582]
spread evenly across an imaginary 100
[585]
millimeter diameter circle so this means
[587]
if you have a set of wheels with an even
[589]
lug pattern you can effectively measure
[591]
from hole to hole to find out what size
[593]
they are but if you have a five lug
[595]
vehicle you have to do math because no
[596]
two holes actually oppose each other so
[599]
yeah I guess is my interesting thing
[601]
about bolt patterns moving on the last
[604]
thing that we care about sizing wise is
[606]
the old hub bore here and it's important
[608]
because your wheel should be the right
[610]
size to just slip onto the hub that's
[612]
what we in the industry call being hub
[614]
centric it means your wheel is centered
[616]
by your hub if you're real hole is too
[618]
big the wheel will then only be centered
[620]
by the lugs and that's what we call
[621]
being
[622]
c茅dric if you have too big of a hole you
[624]
can get hub centering rings in like a
[625]
million different sizes to perfectly
[627]
take up that gap and center your slabs
[629]
up which unfortunately I think we're
[630]
gonna have to do I thought I had hub
[632]
centric rings for our new wheels and I
[634]
don't so we're gonna be love lug centric
[637]
for the next week or so until I order
[638]
some rings whatever all right now how
[642]
about different types of wheels let's
[644]
briefly touch on all the types of wheels
[646]
in order from cheapest too expensive
[648]
Asst starting with steelies you know
[652]
they are they're made out of steel they
[654]
go behind hubcaps and they can look cool
[656]
next cast wheels it's just when you pour
[659]
molten aluminum into a wheel mold and
[662]
you get a wheel then we've got roll
[664]
formed wheels which are basically a cast
[667]
length and then they put a roller system
[669]
onto that blank and they draw out the
[672]
barrel which means that they can get it
[673]
pretty light pretty strong a little bit
[675]
more than just the cast wheel it's also
[677]
a little more expensive now we've got
[678]
forged wheels which is basically when
[680]
you take a billet of aluminum put it
[682]
into a forging die and squeeze the hell
[684]
out of it to get a really strong really
[686]
dense really light but expensive
[688]
aluminum alright and then we've got the
[689]
gangster class of wheels multi piece
[691]
you've got two piece and three piece the
[694]
face is separated from the barrel and
[695]
sometimes the barrel is made out of two
[697]
pieces and all those different pieces
[698]
can be made using various forms of the
[701]
stuff that we just talked about you can
[702]
spend as much money as you want you can
[704]
get whatever fitment you want and they
[705]
look pretty sick but they're also very
[707]
expensive alright now that you're up to
[710]
speed on wheels and tires it's time to
[712]
talk about what we bought for the Miata
[714]
and why that's right folks we got our
[717]
pf' ones can you believe it very unique
[719]
I know instead of NK RPF ones but listen
[722]
they're one piece
[723]
they're light they're very strong
[725]
they're made with that roll forming
[727]
process that we talked about earlier and
[729]
they're basically just a great
[730]
crossroads of all the things that we
[732]
care about in a wheel so these are a 15
[735]
by 8 inch positive 28 millimeter offset
[738]
so as I break down how I got to this
[740]
wheel I'm gonna install them because the
[743]
sun's going down Oh starting to get
[747]
excited alright so first let's talk
[749]
about diameter stock wheels are 14
[751]
inches these are 15 did that for a few
[753]
reasons one someday we're gonna put
[755]
bigger
[756]
on this car and bigger brakes need more
[758]
room so we went with an inch larger in
[760]
diameter
[761]
beyond that tires you have a lot more
[763]
options for 15-inch tires like these 14s
[766]
you don't have nearly as many options
[768]
another thing with the tires is that the
[770]
larger the wheel the smaller your
[772]
sidewall ends up being so you'll get a
[774]
little bit less flex with a shorter
[776]
sidewall so these will be a little bit
[777]
more performance oriented and beyond
[779]
that I guess really the most important
[781]
thing of all is that they look better
[782]
they look a little bit bigger look a
[783]
little more sporty and that's kind of
[786]
what we're going for right so these are
[791]
eight inches wide and the stock ones
[793]
were six inches wide and the reason for
[795]
that the reason I wanted wider wheels is
[797]
so I could have wider tires which means
[799]
I can have a wider contact patch on the
[801]
asphalt which means I'll have more grip
[802]
but the question is how did I know that
[804]
eight inches would fit and the answer
[806]
here honestly is mostly from the forums
[808]
I did a lot of research read what other
[810]
people had done and I knew that these
[812]
would fit but if you can't do that you
[814]
can measure you can have your stock
[815]
wheels on the car and measure inwards to
[817]
the nearest thing that you would run
[819]
into remembering that every inch you go
[821]
wider will make it stick further in half
[824]
an inch and further out half an inch as
[826]
long as you're not changing offset so
[828]
you can measure or you can do a bunch of
[829]
research on the forums which is what I
[831]
did and they fit so for tires we went
[835]
with a Toyo our triple 8r which is going
[838]
to be super sticky
[839]
it's a 205 50 15 how did I decide that
[843]
size well the wheels like we said are
[845]
eight inches wide which translates to I
[847]
think two hundred and three point two
[849]
millimeters and because we know how to
[851]
read a tire size now we know that two of
[853]
five means that it's 205 millimeters
[855]
wide so it's pretty much the perfect
[857]
fitment for our wheels we could have
[858]
gone with the 225 on this and it would
[860]
look a little bulgy and that's kind of a
[862]
cool look too but I went with this
[863]
because I didn't want to have to modify
[865]
the body yet as far as the sidewall goes
[867]
the 50 series profile we did that
[869]
because it leaves us with a very similar
[872]
to stock rolling diameter the overall
[874]
diameter of the tire and the reason that
[876]
you pay attention to that is because if
[878]
you change that very much then your
[880]
speedometer won't read correctly because
[882]
now the wheel being a different diameter
[884]
will spin a different amount of times
[886]
for a given distance okay and then the
[888]
15
[889]
part of the tire was pretty obvious
[891]
because that's the size of our wheels
[892]
and these tires are W speed rated which
[894]
is good for 168 miles an hour so if we
[897]
can make this thing do that speed will
[899]
be prepared all right that is
[905]
four-on-the-floor weather something we
[907]
haven't talked about yet and that is our
[908]
offset these are a plus 28 millimeter
[911]
offset how do we get to that
[912]
well again the forum's were super
[914]
helpful because so many people have
[916]
nyada's it's very easy to find fitments
[918]
that other people have done so I knew
[920]
this would work but if you don't you can
[922]
measure and figure out how much offset
[924]
you can handle all right so imagine use
[926]
your imagination and imagine this is the
[928]
stock wheel and imagine that we
[929]
remembered to film this part two hours
[932]
ago when we had the stock wheels on and
[933]
basically what you'll want to do at ride
[935]
height like this is get a straight edge
[937]
and go from edge to edge through the
[939]
center of your wheel and then you'll
[941]
measure in millimeters how much gap you
[944]
have from your wheel to the inside of
[946]
your fender now obviously we're a little
[948]
bit past flush because our straight edge
[950]
goes out the outside of our fender but
[952]
if this was a stock wheel we'd be far
[954]
inside of the fender and we'd be able to
[956]
measure from our straight edge to the
[958]
inner lip of the fender and then you can
[960]
see how many millimeters you can move
[962]
outwards now that's only if you're not
[964]
changing with at the same time if you
[966]
are you have to take that into account
[967]
as well but it's very simple
[969]
straight edge measure and then you know
[971]
okay so there's another thing that we
[972]
haven't talked about which we have been
[974]
using and you're gonna need and that's
[976]
lug nuts so you could in some cases get
[979]
away with reusing your stock lug nuts we
[980]
could have done that here but it
[982]
wouldn't look as cool and that's a
[984]
problem for us but what do you need to
[986]
know to choose some lug nuts not really
[988]
that much you need to know the diameter
[990]
and thread pitch of your lug nuts or
[992]
your bolt holes these on the Miata are a
[994]
12 which means 12 millimeter diameter
[996]
and 1.5 millimeter thread pitch which
[999]
means a millimeter and a half between
[1000]
each thread and then the other thing you
[1001]
need to know is your seat the seat of
[1004]
your lugs in this case it's a cone
[1006]
because the shape here which really is
[1008]
important about the wheel you need to
[1010]
match your lug nuts to your wheels most
[1011]
are gonna be cones but you need to make
[1013]
sure that you're getting the right stuff
[1014]
for your car then you put them on torque
[1016]
them down to whatever your torque spec
[1017]
is and that's it
[1020]
[Music]
[1026]
that's it that's our first official
[1028]
modification on the money pit Miata and
[1030]
I couldn't be more excited we got a nice
[1032]
set of wheels and some sticky tires this
[1034]
thing is gonna be so much better than it
[1035]
was already but if you look at the car
[1037]
you will notice that it's it's way too
[1039]
high so we have to address that next so
[1042]
that'll be next week we're gonna do some
[1044]
coil overs and get this thing sitting
[1045]
just right so I appreciate you guys
[1048]
watching I hope you're having fun I hope
[1049]
you learned a thing or two so we'll see
[1051]
you guys next week in the meantime
[1053]
follow me on instagram at zack job and
[1055]
follow my boys that helped me make this
[1057]
show at eddie Esparza and at tenderoni
[1060]
my guys love you guys see you next week
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