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DIY Board and Batten Accent Wall | Wainscoting How to - YouTube
Channel: Fix This Build That
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See how I turned
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a blank wall into this
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awesome accent wall
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with help from today's sponsor.
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Scotch painter's tape.
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So here's the wall
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that we're starting with,
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and it does have a few things
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that we need to take care of
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before we start doing anything,
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and that is removing
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the chair rail that is here.
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We really don't like it
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as too traditional and taking down
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this little extra piece of crown molding,
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which they added up on the top
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to make it look taller.
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I think it looks like junk.
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So remove all that
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and then we can patch
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the walls and get it ready for paint.
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Now, this technique is going to work
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for removing any style trim or so.
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If you don't have chair rail,
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but you have something else, don't worry.
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You can use this.
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I started my scoring the top
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in the bottom of the rail
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with a box cutter.
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And this helps break the paint bond.
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Now, this lets you get a putty knife
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or a bar behind it,
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and then you can start pulling it
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away from the wall gently.
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Just be careful not to dent the wall.
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I work my way around
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the room in the chair rail came off
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pretty easily with minimal damage.
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And then I grab the ladder
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and I can take care
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of that Warnke top trim.
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So here's the crowd loading.
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I've got this little trim up on top
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and this is just all painted wall.
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This is just like a horrible job to make
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this look more grand than it is.
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Kind of feels like those old Pontiac Fiero's
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where they put the body kit on it
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to make it look like
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a Ferrari Testarossa,
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just not doing it.
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And if you're too young
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for that reference, just go Google it.
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I use the same technique on this trim
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scoring and prying it away from the wall,
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and they put it up
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as four wall length pieces.
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So one's a little bit unwieldy,
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but with a little work
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and a few broken pieces,
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I got it down right with the trim off.
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One of the things
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you're probably going to run
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into is a little mismatch
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in between the painted
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wall and underneath,
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because there's multiple
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layers of paint on this wall,
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but the drywall is just bare.
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So there's a little gap there.
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And you can even have
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some peel off here in between.
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So to print that, I'm going
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to knock it down with a razor blade
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and then we'll send that
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and use some spackling or mining
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compound to smooth everything out.
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I'm using a straight razor blade here,
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but you can also get them
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in those little scraper holdi thingies
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and it'll be a lot easier to handle.
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And it doesn't have to be perfect.
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Just scrape everything off
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flush with the wall
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so that you can fill it in with compound
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and Gilli to drywall knife over it.
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So this is going to be too wide of a gap
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for spackled, so
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I am going to use some joint compound
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and go over the top of that
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and then sand it all flush.
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But if you just had a few holes
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and you saw how I was denting
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in the nail holes from the chair rail,
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I was doing that
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to get just a little indentation.
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And then I can fill that in with spackle.
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So I've got the three am high
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strength, small hole repair.
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And this is perfect
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for nicks and nail holes.
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And this is in the all
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in one applicator,
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which is great because you don't need
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any extra tools.
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You can actually put
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this straight on the hole, squeeze it out
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and use the back end
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for a little putty knife.
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And then the end actually
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even has sandpaper on it.
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So it is truly all in one applicator.
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The small hole repair is great
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because it actually has primer in it
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and it'll dry quickly and it will not
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shrink or crack.
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So you can do that
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if you just have a few holes to do.
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This is a great option for it.
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I went around and I dented
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all the nail holes in the wall,
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and then I mix up some 45 minute
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joint compound to patch it.
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It's pretty easy to apply to mine
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since the chair rail left a valley
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between the two painted surfaces.
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I'm using a six inch taping knife
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and I'm feathering in the compound
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into that recess.
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I love using a drywall hawk
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to hold the compound versus a pan.
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It gives you so much more control
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and it's a lot easier to hold.
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Plus, I think a hawk
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makes you look like three point
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eight times cooler, too subdued
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as we get into the painting.
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It is all about preparation
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to get a great painting job.
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Now, I'm going to start that
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by saying the walls
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and I'm going to sand the coat
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of the mud that I put on there.
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I've got the three am
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pro grade precision sanding sponge here.
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And you can have in a variety of grits.
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I like to use one
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hundred and twenty grit.
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I'm going to say in that.
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But these are also great for
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if you have any drips
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on your walls or any inconsistencies,
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go ahead and hit that
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with the sanding sponge first
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and then make sure you clean it all up
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because you want to have a clean,
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smooth and dry surface
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to get your paint started on.
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Now, you guys know I hate dust.
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So I brought it in the shop back
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and I try to capture it before
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it got into the air.
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After the initial sanding,
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I filled in any spots that I missed
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with a second coat
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or using a small flashlight.
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Diecast raking light
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at a 90 degree angle
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to the wall is a great way
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to find those voids
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and imperfections to fill.
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I'm taking the time to get it
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right here before you paint.
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It's going to make your
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paint job a lot cleaner
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and it's going to
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look way better in the end.
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There's a ton of different styles
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that you can do with board bad
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and whether it's just vertical strips
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or if you want to do a square grid
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across the whole thing
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or some combination of those.
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So it really helps
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to go ahead and mock that up
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and make sure it's the look
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that you've bought before you commit.
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So the way that I like to do
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that is start in the computer
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and then bring it back to the real world.
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I started off by measuring the width
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and the height of the feature wall,
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and we'll be removing this baseboard,
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but we're going to be
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keeping the crown molding.
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So I took that into account as well.
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And then I could mock up the wall in 3D
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to see what it looks like.
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Now, I started by adding
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in the baseboard, top rails
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and vertical boards on each end
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so that I could define the space
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for the interior.
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It's easiest to decide how many openings
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you want on the wall,
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and then you can play with the math
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to figure out the exact
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measurements you need.
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So if I wanted seven openings,
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I would use eight boards
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total on that wall.
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So to find the spacing, I can first
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subtract the total width
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of those eight boards.
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I'm using three and a half
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inch, one by fours.
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I could take that
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from the width of the wall.
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And then you divide that number
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by the total number of openings,
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which is seven.
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So for this setup, that equals
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twenty two point three six.
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So I just rounded that down to twenty
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two and a quarter inches for simplicity
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just to see how it looked.
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Then I actually went into the room
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and started laying out
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the boards on the wall.
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If you're not a nerd like me
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who loves 3D designing,
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you can skip straight to the step
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after working out
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the measurements on paper.
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You don't really need a computer.
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But the beauty of the 3-D
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modeling is I can quickly mock up
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what it would look like with a grid
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of horizontal pieces.
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Now, I can just use that same equation
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for the vertical spacing.
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I can also see how it looks
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if I deleted some of sinter boards
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and just left the top and bottom details.
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You just need to change
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the numbers in the equation
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if you want to see how it looks
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with more or less boards
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and figure out what
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that exact measurement is for your setup.
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Actually, like the look of six openings,
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when I mocked it up on the wall,
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that centerboard hit
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right on top of an outlet.
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It actually wasn't even sintered.
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It would have been right on the edge.
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So that wasn't going to work.
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So in the end, we decided
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to go with five openings
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in a top and bottom detail,
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which I think looks
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great on this large wall.
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So we got the design locked in
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and now we just need
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to prep the rest of the room
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before we start on the ax
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and wall over here.
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If you paint the rest of the room
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first, it's going to make it a lot easier
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once you get installing
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and you'll just have to tape it one time.
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You're going to have help
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from SCATCH painter's tape to sponsor
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today's video to get that done.
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Do they have a whole family of tapes
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that are specifically made
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for different surfaces
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and different purposes?
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So as I started painting
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through the rest of the room, I was using
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the Scotch blue original painter's
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tape to help protect
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the baseboards and the trim
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and make sure that we didn't get paint
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where we didn't want it.
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But as I get into the accent, well,
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I'm going to use
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some of their specialty tapes.
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They have the scotch
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blue sharp lines, painted tape,
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and at the scotch,
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delicate surface painter's tape.
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And these are specifically made
[412]
with the Edgeland technology,
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which helps seal out the paint.
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And they are great
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for getting those super
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crisp lines, which we want
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on the accent wall as we have
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two different colors.
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Have links below in the description
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to all the Scotch painter's
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tape products that you can check out
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and give for your jobs to.
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And
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I'm taking off the baseboard
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and replacing it with five
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and a half inch, one by six
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and this trim poler
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does an amazing job
[445]
in his wind back,
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doesn't dent in your walls
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like a small pry bar can.
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Before I started using this guy,
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my walls look like I played a game
[452]
of whack a mole along the bottom
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after I pried off the boards
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and one of my base boards
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to run the full width of the wall
[458]
versus copying it into the existing trim.
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So I cut off a small piece
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of the new trim,
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and I could use that as a reference
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to cut down the old ones.
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Now, an oscillating tool is by
[467]
far the best way to do this.
[468]
But you can also use a flush trim Hansel
[470]
and a chisel to clean things up.
[473]
Now the corners between the walls
[474]
tend to get rounded
[475]
and filled in with or paint,
[477]
which makes your trim not sit
[478]
well and stick out
[480]
to avoid any issues that can cause.
[481]
I like to bevel the back
[482]
edges of the trim
[483]
that go into the corner.
[484]
I do this with a chisel and ain't pretty,
[487]
but it gets the job done.
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I'm using 16 foot boards here
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so that I don't have to have any breaks
[492]
in the Terim to deal with.
[494]
And we just dropped it
[495]
right into place and amazingly, it fit
[497]
nice on the first try waves.
[499]
And I thought after leveling it out,
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I attached the baseboards
[503]
with two inch Brad nails
[504]
right into the studs
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that was doing the old knuckle
[507]
knocking trick to find the studs,
[509]
which is less than optimal.
[511]
There's a better way.
[513]
My favorite way to find studs in a
[515]
wall is using a rare earth magnet.
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Any magnet will work, but the rare earth
[518]
magnets work really well.
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All you have to do is run across the wall
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and where it sticks to the wall.
[523]
It is found a metallic fastener,
[525]
like a screw or nail.
[526]
And there is a stud there.
[527]
And to keep the walls
[528]
from getting marked up too much,
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I just put a little piece of Scotch
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painter's tape on the end.
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And it is a great way
[533]
to protect your wall.
[534]
I'm going to be painting this,
[535]
but it will work great that way
[536]
if you're hanging pictures
[537]
on a finished wall.
[539]
Now, I use this trick to mark out
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the studs about six inches
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below the crown molding
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to make the next step
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a little bit easier.
[545]
Now the nails are going
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to hold the board in place,
[547]
but adding adhesive caulk
[548]
gives you that belt
[549]
and suspenders confidence
[551]
that it's not going to
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drop down on your head.
[553]
And we hoisted up the upper board
[554]
and then I nailed it into place at all
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those marks that
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I had just made on the studs.
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I wanted the trim
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right up against the crown molding.
[560]
That crown molding was already level.
[562]
So it looked great.
[563]
I didn't need to make any adjustments.
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And with the top and bottom boards
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in, I could start fitting
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the vertical pieces
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and instead of measuring,
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I just put the boards in place
[572]
and mark the exact fit
[574]
which I took to the shop
[575]
and then cut all my miter saw.
[580]
I've got the board cut to size,
[581]
and I also put a
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little bevel on the back,
[584]
just like I did on the edges
[585]
for the baseboards,
[586]
except I did do this with my table.
[587]
So you can also do this
[588]
with a router or a chisel
[590]
or even a belt sander just to give it
[592]
a little more cushion in that corner.
[597]
So it's a pretty good fit.
[598]
But I do have some gaps in here
[600]
as I push this against the wall,
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there are some areas in here.
[603]
But since we're going to be paying this
[605]
and we're really
[605]
putting Cork on that joint anyway,
[607]
and I'm not going to worry about it
[608]
because we all know that caulk and paint
[610]
making the carpenter.
[611]
You ain't.
[613]
A small gaps on the side
[614]
aren't a big deal,
[615]
but gaps
[615]
where the vertical
[616]
boards meet the baseboards
[617]
should be reduced the best you can.
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I use some shims, the flesh,
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the one by fours up with the base
[622]
before nailing them in.
[624]
And then I could come back
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and score them with a box cutter
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and snap them off
[627]
and leave the shims in place
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behind the boards.
[630]
I went over the other side of the room
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and I installed the left edge
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to define my interior space
[634]
before moving on.
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I recommend marking
[641]
the layout of your boards
[642]
on the wall as a last confirmation before
[644]
installing everything
[645]
just to make sure
[646]
that your measurements are good here.
[648]
And wouldn't you know,
[648]
I totally jacked up
[650]
one of my measurements,
[651]
so I remarked the two boards
[652]
and made sure everything
[653]
was evenly spaced
[655]
and avoided a big mistake in the end.
[657]
And then I could mark and label
[659]
all the vertical boards and cut them down
[661]
to size all at once.
[662]
If you don't give them
[663]
perfect, don't worry.
[664]
You can fill in any small gaps later.
[667]
Now, when installing the interior boards,
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I used a six foot
[669]
level to plumb up the one by four
[671]
and then stuck it to the wall
[672]
and nailed it in place at several spots.
[675]
You're more than likely
[675]
won't be hitting studs here.
[677]
So a good amount of adhesive
[678]
caulk will hold the wood in place.
[680]
One of the thing I started doing
[681]
was leveling the board
[682]
and then marking on both sides of it
[684]
at the top, middle and bottom.
[687]
And that way I had nice reference lines
[688]
so I could sit in the one by four on it,
[690]
and I didn't have to check for level.
[692]
Once I had the adhesive on
[693]
and wanted to tack it in place,
[695]
we're ready install the horizontal boards
[697]
here for the detail.
[697]
And I cut to spacers.
[699]
These are 16 and a
[700]
half inches for Orwall.
[701]
And I also cut the horizontal spacers
[703]
to fit in their nice tight fit.
[705]
So now I can just use the spacer
[708]
to get that straight in.
[710]
Just imagine that that's up there.
[711]
So we're gonna put these in.
[713]
I'm going to use the 60
[714]
and have spacers for the top
[715]
as well as the bottom
[716]
and make installation super easy.
[719]
Spacers really do
[720]
take the guesswork out of it.
[721]
And all you have to do is worry
[722]
about shimming out the boards
[724]
to be flush with the verticals.
[726]
I you ceder shims
[727]
for most of the larger gaps,
[728]
but for smaller gaps.
[729]
I used a couple of pieces
[730]
of playing cards to skim it out.
[732]
And just the tip here.
[733]
Cutting those top boards
[734]
a little tight will help you
[736]
with the juggling act of trying
[737]
to use the spacers on the top
[739]
and nail the one by for up there
[740]
all by yourself.
[741]
But now I could really start
[743]
seeing how the room would look.
[744]
And I am loving this layout for sure.
[747]
Are the boards are up and they're looking
[748]
great now, I have to fill
[749]
all the holes in the seams.
[750]
I'm going to be using some more of the 3M
[752]
high strength, small hole repair,
[754]
and I'm going to use it
[754]
actually in the big tub,
[755]
because they have so many holes .
[757]
And I'm going to also use it
[758]
to fill the cracks.
[759]
And you want to fill the cracks
[760]
in the holes first.
[761]
That way you can sand everything
[762]
and get the dust all gone before
[764]
you start doing your caulking.
[765]
I filled in all the gaps
[766]
and nail holes and went a little heavy
[768]
that I knew
[769]
I could send them back to flush
[771]
in after it all dried,
[772]
I could use those sanding
[773]
sponges on the nail holes
[774]
to smooth everything out.
[775]
But on the joints between the boards,
[777]
use an electric sander.
[778]
It's going to save you a ton of time here
[781]
and just keep sanding
[782]
until you see Birdwood
[783]
on both sides of the joint.
[784]
And then, you know, it's flush.
[786]
I finished off the wall prep
[787]
by caulking all the seams of the trim.
[789]
Just try to use as little as possible
[791]
because you don't want it squeezing out
[793]
and getting everywhere
[794]
when you smooth it down
[795]
with your advanced moving tool,
[797]
your point a finger.
[798]
All right.
We're ready to prep for paint
[800]
and we're going to be using the scotch
[801]
delicate surface painter's tape.
[803]
This is specifically made
[805]
just for this application.
[807]
Accent walls and painting stripes
[808]
and things on walls is perfect for that.
[810]
It has the edge lock technology
[811]
which seals out the paint
[813]
to give you a nice, crisp and clean line.
[815]
Also, because it
[815]
is for delicate surfaces.
[817]
You can use it on painted walls
[818]
after they've been secured
[819]
for at least twenty four hours.
[821]
So we're at thirty
[821]
six hours on this wall.
[823]
So we're going to be good.
[823]
I'm going to bed it down
[824]
and then we'll start cutting in
[826]
and we'll get that nice, crisp
[827]
line when we peel it off
[829]
before starting to put down your tape.
[831]
Make sure that the surface
[832]
is clean and dry
[833]
and then start at the top
[834]
and work your way down.
[836]
Now, I like to hold the tape real
[838]
tight against the wall to help
[839]
keep the line straight,
[841]
to help seal the edge.
[842]
I came back with a putty knife
[843]
and bedded down the tape,
[844]
putting some nice pressure on him.
[846]
And the tape should set
[847]
for 30 to 60 minutes before painting
[849]
to let that edge
[850]
like technology seal tight.
[852]
So I use that time to prime
[853]
all the bear wood on the walls
[855]
and to tape the top and bottom
[857]
and do some cutting in.
[858]
I use the Scotch Blue
[859]
original on the carpet,
[860]
and I took the tape under the baseboard
[862]
to fully protected and definitely use
[864]
the wide tape here for this application.
[867]
I use the Scotch blue sharp lines
[869]
tape on the top to cover up
[870]
the crown molding.
[871]
No, I realize that the entire line
[872]
is going to be hidden from sight
[874]
because that top board
[875]
actually sticks out further
[876]
than the crown molding where they meet.
[878]
And before painting the outside lines,
[880]
we decide to cut in the interior panels.
[882]
And that way, Susan could be rolling
[883]
while I was painting the trim boards.
[885]
I had this really cool time
[887]
lapse of it all.
[887]
But apparently my camera had other ideas
[890]
because it cut off one minute into it.
[892]
So and we're done at this point.
[895]
I had been over an hour, so
[896]
I was good to paint the edges
[897]
over the delicate surface tape.
[898]
You can just paint
[899]
right up against that line.
[900]
Just try not to glob up
[901]
the paint too much along the tape
[903]
because it's going to make it easier
[904]
to remove later.
[906]
Now then, Susan and I
[907]
just put on some country music
[909]
and painted our little hearts out.
[910]
And I've got to say, Susan,
[911]
was that a handicap here?
[913]
Because she was using one of those
[914]
little hot dog rollers.
[915]
And at first I thought we'd
[916]
have her roll the boards
[918]
and then I'd back brush them.
[919]
And that little roller
[920]
would be easier to use.
[921]
But it turned out that
[922]
it was better for me to just go ahead
[924]
and brush the boards
[925]
in her to roll the wall.
[926]
But honestly, I still love
[928]
those little hot dog rollers,
[929]
even though the last time I used one,
[930]
I got destroyed in the comments for it.
[932]
So I'll take the hit for this one, too.
[936]
Right.
We put on a second coat of paint
[938]
and then we can start taking off the tape
[939]
and reveal things.
[941]
So I took the tape off of
[942]
the top of the crown molding
[943]
and into the carpet
[944]
to make sure that I didn't
[945]
pull up any pay off of it
[946]
, actually push down the tape
[948]
to break that bond of the paint
[949]
on the baseboard,
[950]
and then I can pull it off
[951]
in a 45 degree angle.
[952]
And it came up great in the baseboards.
[954]
Look awesome.
[955]
Now for the corner over here
[956]
on the delicate surface tape,
[958]
all you have to do is pull it off
[959]
at a 45 degree angle
[961]
and you'll reveal that nice, crisp line
[963]
if you're starting to have any tears
[964]
or anything like that.
[965]
And you can also score it
[966]
with a razor blade,
[967]
and that should break the paint bond
[969]
and allow you to remove it,
[970]
just like I did on the
[970]
baseboards earlier.
[976]
This morning, that in action
[977]
all turned out really
[978]
nice is a huge upgrade
[979]
over that Cheryll that we had before.
[982]
And I want to give another big
[983]
thank you to scatch painter's tape
[984]
for sponsoring today's video.
[985]
If you want to check out some other home
[986]
renovation projects,
[987]
I got a playlist
[988]
cued up for you right there.
[989]
We've done some other room makeovers.
[990]
I think you're going to like
[991]
I don't give a big
[992]
thank you
[992]
to all those folks
[993]
who have been joining the Builders Club,
[995]
and I'll get you guys over
[996]
there on the next video.
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