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Make your own LED Bar - Part 1 (matrix frame,bar construction,WS2812B lighting system) - YouTube
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One year ago I decided to build the biggest 15 by 10 RGB LED matrix.
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It took a lot of time.
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But as you can see, this 1.5 metre by 1 metre LED matrix works quite well nowadays.
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But having just a matrix is a bit useless.
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So i also built a frame around is with a nice self which lights up.
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And i can change the colour animation with the press of the button,
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and dimm the LEDs with a potentiometer.
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This way it became my LED bar.
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To serve drinks or just a put stuff on.
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And it looks way better than i expected in the bigining!
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That is why i will show you now, how i constructed the frame wall of matrix and the whole LED wall itself.
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Including the electronics to controll the (shatel) lights.
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Lets get started!
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(Intro music)
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Everithing is built around this 1.5 metre by 1 metre square of acrylic glass.
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And we made sure it has a milk wight colour,
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so that light can easily shine through and get defused at the same time.
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Firstly we sawed wooden panels with a width of 12 centimetres, into 4 smaller peaces, with a () jigsaw.
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And we use sanding paper to smooth the adges afterwards.
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Those 4 peaces should lay the form to square for the acrylic glass.
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So we use the bracket, to get a nice 90 degree angle between two panels,
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and uses the (wall drill) to preet wheel the 2 holes in each intersection.
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Than everything got secured with big wood screws afterwards.
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And tha main frame was done!
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Time for the most satisfying part!
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By pealing off the protector film of one side of the acrylic glass.
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We positiond the glass on top of the wooden frame,
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and it's some basic measurements and mark where to insert 3 wood screws on each frame sides.
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Now here is an advice when you drill acrylic glass!
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Take your time!
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You can't just put screws in without predrilling a hole!
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And we also use a bigger drill to create an invitation for that the wood screws will lighter be flashed in the glass.
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And the matrix frame is done.
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The rest of the bar is mainly build with those long planks.
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We strarted to saw 2 of those to a length of 1.495 metre.
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And also 2 smaller ones to complete the square.
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Which will be positioned underneath the top shelf, which is also a piece of acrylic glass,
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with a width of 25.5 centimetres.
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Again we used wood screws to build a square and also test is out how well light would shine through this glass,
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and it looked pretty neat.
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The dirt was just on the protector film by the way.
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Than we went ahed and cut the glass.
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So that it fits on the wooden frame.
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And the top has done.
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Now we used this top wooden square and built 2 more wooden squares around it.
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And used smaller peaces of woods to connect them together.
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Basicly it's all just wooden sqares.
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It's a bit hard to explain but here is the result.
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Which should give you a good idea of what i mean.
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As you can see, we also used those big wooden panels for the sides.
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We cut those with the jigsaw and mounted them again with wood screws.
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And i used white paint to give the LED bar a nice colour.
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Now let's talk about the lighting system!
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This time i used a WS2812B LED strip which has more LED/metre as 2801 LED strip,
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which you know from my "Ambilight" video.
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It also only needs 1 pin of the microcontroller to control it.
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Which is neat,
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I chose the Attiny85 to keep everything small and cheap.
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Here is the schematic.
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We've got 1 push button of pull down resistor to select the mode,
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and one 10kOhm potentiometer to set the brightness.
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The potentiometer, LED strip and 5V power will be connected to the PCB with those terminals.
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The building of the whole PCB only took me 15 minutes.
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And i even made the board layout diagram for you guys!
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So it should be really easy build.
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As always you can download the schematic, code and find the part list on my instructable site.
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Link is in description.
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And dont forget to program the Attiny85 with your programming shield which i showed you in another video!
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And you also need the "FastLED.h" library.
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Sooo download it!
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Now it is time to mount the LED strip,
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underneath the acrylic glass.
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And if you think: Why is the glass suddenly glued to the frame?
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Well it was the first try and i removed it later.
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But more about of it in the second part.
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The first test with the strip was successful.
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So we decided to fuse the matrix with the bar,
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by pushing it slowly and carefully inside our wooden frame.
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But it didn't look so greet.
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So we pulled off the protector film on the side,
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and built kind of like big (show) frame around it.
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Again we used small wooden (planks), which are already painted white.
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And i think it looks way better than before.
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Because you cannot see the transition between the matrix and the bar anymore.
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And it also hides the big screws and the acrylic glass.
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Now it's time to score the PCB and break off the unnecessary part.
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Than i soldered 3 wires to the LED strip, which later connect to the main PCB.
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Afterwards i got myself a 5V, 3A power supply, which will be enough choose to power the strip.
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I cut off the old plug and removed the isolation of the positive power wire.
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And i was just double checked the polarity of the wires with my multimeter.
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Here you can see, how i hotglued the PCB to one of the wooden walls.
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Which was a good idea.
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Because it is not too noticeable there.
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But not a good idea was to glue the potenciometer and the power switch to this wooden side as well.
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Because there was just 2 bid.
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I will need to reposicion them and the second part.
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Moving on to the top acrylic glass part,
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which are already removed once.
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I've just used one small line of Acrylic on the trame to glue the glass to it.
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But silicon would have also worked fine.
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Than with a steady hand and a bit of precision we allowed the glass onto the frame and pressed it in place.
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Now the lighting effect does look way better than before!
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Because i didn't used so much acrylic whitch is squashed out of the side like last time.
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Would that mean said, let's and the first part here!
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And find out how i completed this built in the next video.
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As always, thanks for watching!
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Don't forget to like, share and subscribe!
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For more electronics projects, stay creative and i will see you next time!
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