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How to Use Coverstitch Machine Binders (plus Generic binder & plate for Juki Coverstitch Machine) - YouTube
Channel: Gingerhead & Co
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Hello I'm Alex and this is Gingerhead and Co,
my sewing vlog
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In this vlog I'm going to talk about
coverstitch binder attachments
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or binders of various types. If that's
interesting for you don't forget to like
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the video and
subscribe to the channel if you want to
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see more videos like that.
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So what are coverstitch binders or coverstitch binder attachments?
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The attachments that we use to add
binding
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to our projects. Usually we add binding
to the necklines or to the armholes
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but also to the pockets or to any
decorative feature that you wish.
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Because of how they are built they fold
the
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tape and hold it firmly under your foot
so they save time.
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What type of cover stitchmachine
binders are there? They can be
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single or double fold; that means they fold
the tape
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around your fabric either from the
bottom and the top or only
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from the top or only from the bottom. You
can actually use
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every double fold binder to make it into
a single fold binder
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either by putting a piece of paper or
maybe a sheet of very
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thin plastic to block out one of
the lips -
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or even simpler: you can just
distort the binding, so you can pull it
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slightly out and make sure that
as you guide your fabric- that the
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bottom,
let's say, is always out. Then you've got
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a single fold attachment.
They vary in sizes so for example if you
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have 36 mil
binder it will produce the binding of
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10 millimeters. Mine are 40, 36,
28. They can be used with woven
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or knit fabric / knit binding, but you need
to check
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your attachment - if it's suitable for
both or only one. The knit binding
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is usually cut along the biggest stretch:
so crosswise, and the woven binding
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should be cut on the bias.
Binders can have a rake for your tape
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or not. The rake
helps because it holds the tape firmly
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as you sew.
They can be generic or brand specific.
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I've got a baby lock.
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Generic binders have
pros and cons- as everything. They're
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usually much
cheaper: the difference between a generic
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binder
and, let's say, a baby lock binder can be
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up to 40 pounds,
so that's a lot of money, but also: some
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brands don't
make them so you need to have a generic
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binder if you want to bind
your projects. However there might be
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some disadvantages of using a generic
binder.
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Generic binders are not all great
quality.
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So I've got one binder from China, that's
for my Juki coverstitch machine,
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and this is not the best quality. That
was 拢14
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but it looks 拢14, it feels 拢14
it's
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quite fiddly. Some are better: so this one
also for Juki, is from Erika Syskrin
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and this is definitely a better quality
binder
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but it was also more expensive. Another
thing is that you usually need an
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adapter plate,
so you will need to buy that. And before
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you attach your binder you need to
attach
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the binding
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adapter plate. And quite an important
thing to remember
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is that if you damage your machine using
a generic binder - not provided by the
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producer of your coverstitch machine
you can't use your guarantee, so your
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machine will not be repaired under the
conditions of the guarantee because
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that's the
user's fault. That might be a problem for
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you,
so consider whether you want to risk it
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or not.
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I prefer to attach my plate first but
you can test the position of the binder
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first. Screw it loosely onto the plate
attach the plate and then tighten the
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binder.
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Make sure that the plate is fixed firmly
and doesn't wobble.
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The washers are used to prevent
scratches on your machine.
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Place them over the screw holes on the
plate first.
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Place your binder sideways on the plate.
The lips should be aligned with the
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outer needle.
You'll need to find the perfect
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placement and
adjust the binder, so always use
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test fabric, scrap fabric, to check the
position.
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But even now you can check the position
of the needles
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in relation to the binder. Screw the
binder to the plate.
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It will need a few adjustments but
before you start sewing
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make sure that the feed dogs have enough
room to move
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and they are not touching the binder.
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Place the binding so that the right side
of the binding
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faces the machine: the letters "Juki MCS".
Using tweezers pull out some of the
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binding.
Make sure it lays perfectly flat under
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the foot.
Coverstitch a few centimeters or a few
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inches
to check if the stitch is right.
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Place the garment - your fabric, between
the lips.
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Make sure that there is no gap between
the fabric and
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the binder.
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Always check if you are happy with the
position and with the stitch.
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You will most likely have to do some
adjustments.
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Try to bind everything flat, if you have
more garments,
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try to use one continuous binding tape
and then cut the spaces between the
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garments.
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Go slowly around curves, anything
that is cut on the curve is going to be
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more difficult
to bind, so go slowly.
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Well,
the position here is okay but the stitch
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length is
too short.
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And the same process but I've moved the
binder a fraction of a millimeter
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to the right
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so you can see what difference it makes.
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What are the most common mistakes when
using a binder
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with your coverstitch machine?
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Probably
the most common one
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is that your tape is going to be too
short. You need at least a few inches
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so about 10 centimeters more
than you think you need, because as we
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start
and as we finish we need to have a bit
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of spare
binding tape.
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Second really really common
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mistake is
wrong placement: even one millimeter off,
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one
or the other way is going to make a
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difference and it can damage your
project.
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The third really common mistake is
pulling on the tape.
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Excessive pulling on the tape. You should
hold it firmly
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but you should not pull the tape as it
goes through
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under the feet of your machine. Another
thing is: creases on your binding or
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on your garment because they will
distort the way
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in which the binding moves. So iron your
binding
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before you start, it's going to make your
life much easier.
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Also, it should be cut properly so all
the lines should be straight.
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That helps as well. Another quite an
important mistake
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is going too fast. Going too fast
especially along the curves.
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Curves are difficult to bind that's why
we tend to do everything flat,
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but if you go too fast you have no
control and you can't really prevent any
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twisting or the fabric getting from
under the binder- so slow down. Another
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problem that
seems to be quite common is skipped
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stitches.
Skipped stitches can be caused, well are
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mainly caused, by
the wrong needle, the wrong threading but
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if you use the binder you
might notice that on the same fabric
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it skipped stitches where it didn't
normally.
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That might be caused by not enough
presser foot pressure.
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So the knob at the top of your machine
should be screwed a bit tighter, but when
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you think about it: you go through
thick fabric and you need to squash the
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fabric, that's the same reason why
sometimes
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some machines skip stitches over joints,
over thicker, bulkier seams, so if you
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increase
foot presser pressure, it will squash
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the fabric a little bit.
If the fabric stops moving, that means
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that it's too high and you have to lower
it.
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Also: to avoid skipped stitches you might
need
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to increase the stitch length. Remember
that you are going through layers of
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fabric so it's
generally thicker, that's why we always
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do a sample. Before you start
your project do a sample, see what works
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better.
If the machine skips stitches anyway
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make sure that it's
threaded correctly. If the machine is
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self-threading,
pull on the thread, check if you have any
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tension, any
resistance. If not, it probably, well, the
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discs - the tension discs,
need a bit of flossing, so a bit of
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cleaning.
Check if there is nothing between them
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and you can just floss them
slightly. If your machine is not self
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threading,
it's very likely that you skipped
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something, so
check if the machine is threaded
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correctly. Another
quite an obvious thing that people so
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often forget about
is: choose the correct needle for your
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project.
The project is going to be thicker so
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choose
a bigger size needle: 80 or 90 needles
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are probably
the ones that you're going to use with
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any sort of binding.
Unless you are doing something very
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sporty, activewear,
and you're using lycra - then you might
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go lower. And check
with your manual for the type of the
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needle
that you use. I've got two different
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machines and they use
different systems for the needles.
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Another common mistake is letting the
binding
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hang off the table. When the binding is
pulling with all its weight,
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it's not going to be easy to bind. So a
solution for that
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is using a thread holder. I've got a
homemade, made by my husband, thread
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holder,
and I use an empty spool that I've got
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left over because I've used up
all the thread, but you can also use an
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empty loo roll.
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And when you put it next to you on the
table it's going to be easier to control
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the binding.
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And finally, some pro tips. These are
mainly for people who work with
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sportswear or
dancewear, with very slinky fabric, with
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something that
doesn't really want to cooperate.
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The fabric
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that is really slinky is
generally problematic,
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so it's good to know some pro tips. Tip
number one:
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for super slinky fabric you might want
to cut the binding
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not on the cross grain but along the
fabric.
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It will have slightly less stretch but
it's going to be
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much more manageable. Tip number two:
if your fabric really misbehaves, you can
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starch your binding. You can use spray
starch
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or you can use potato or corn flour. Of
course, you will have to
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clean your machine and you will have to
wash your garment before
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the first use. Tip number three: you might
want to
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cut your binding a bit wider than
necessary
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for your binder. "A bit" means two, maybe
three millimeters.
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For slinky fabric it's going to help,
it's going to be the perfect size.
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So if your binder is 36 millimeters, well,
I've got a 36 millimeter binder
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and for my lycra, for my sportswear
binding,
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I use four centimeters so 40 millimeters
binding. Another tip: if you want your
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seams to be softer,
so for example for swimsuits or again
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your leggings or things for
your sports, you can use woolly nylon -
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well, stretchy thread in your looper. It's
going to make the
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seams much much softer. Also, you might
want to use the single fold binder
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for the same reason: because it's less
bulk. I hope that helps.
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If you have any questions put them in
the comments below.
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If you have any problems or any
solutions to the problems put them in
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the comments below, and happy binding!
Thank you very much for watching, see you
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soon, bye!
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