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How To Bleed New Sram MTB Brakes | Bleeding Edge Technology - YouTube
Channel: GMBN Tech
[0]
(whooshing)
[1]
(metallic clattering)
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- Now, bleeding your brakes is something
[5]
that all mountain bikers will have
[6]
to tackle from time to time,
[7]
and in this particular video,
[9]
we're going to look at
bleeding SRAM brakes,
[11]
and in particular,
[13]
the latest ones using
the bleeding edge port.
[16]
Now, the bleeding edge port
was a new creation from SRAM
[19]
that makes bleeding a bit
easier and a lot less messy.
[22]
Now, if you're unsure if your
brakes have this new port,
[24]
or it's the older system,
[26]
if you look onscreen now,
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the one on the left is the older system,
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and on the right is the newer system
[30]
with the bleeding edge port.
[32]
Now, this new system can be found
[34]
on brakes manufactured from 2015 onward,
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but it's not on every single model.
[40]
So for this particular job,
[41]
these are the tools you're going to need.
[43]
So to start with, you're going
[44]
to need the relevant
bleeding kit for your brakes.
[46]
So there's SRAM and Avid brakes,
[48]
you need this sort of bleed setup.
[51]
If you don't want to get
the full SRAM spec one,
[53]
Epic Bleed Solutions also make
a bleed kit that does fit,
[57]
although I've not tried it,
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so I can't tell you how good it is.
[60]
Now, you're going to need
a few other things as well.
[62]
So first up, you're going to
need the bleeding edge adaptor.
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So this is the regular
adaptor that suited the brake
[67]
on the left that I showed you
at the beginning of the video.
[69]
All right, this is the
new bleeding edge tool.
[72]
Now, the advantage of using this
[73]
is it locates straight into the brake,
[75]
and the tool itself is used to open
[77]
and close that bleed port so it minimises
[80]
all the seepage that you get,
[82]
and also the chance of air
getting back into the brake.
[84]
Really nice, simple bit of kit.
[86]
There's just an adaptor,
[87]
so if you've already got the
SRAM or the Avid bleed kit,
[90]
you just need to get that
piece to complete the process.
[94]
You're going to need
the various bleed blocks
[96]
to suit your particular brake calliper.
[98]
The idea of that is to push
the pistons apart to get them
[101]
in the right position basically
for when you bleed them.
[103]
Next up, you're going to
need the relevant Torx keys,
[105]
in this case it is the T10 and the T25.
[108]
And of course, Allen keys that are going
[110]
to suit the job for your bike.
[112]
In my case, to take the rear wheel out,
[113]
I'll need a six millimetre Allen key,
[115]
you might not need one at all in yours.
[117]
You'll need a five, a
four, and a two and 1/2.
[119]
Also, you're going to need
some dedicated DOT fluid.
[123]
Ideally I would say get some new fluid,
[125]
because in time this stuff
can ingest moisture into it,
[128]
which does affect the performance
[130]
of your brakes in the long term,
[131]
and will mean you're going to need
[132]
to do this process sooner.
[134]
So if possible, a new fresh one.
[136]
If not, just make sure it's not cloudy
[138]
or looks contaminated in any way.
[140]
And now, I definitely recommend
[142]
some decent nitrile rubber
gloves to protect your hands,
[145]
because the DOT fluid is corrosive.
[147]
I like to recommend people to use
[149]
a set of decent needle nose pliers.
[152]
Now, this is just for taking
off that little retaining clip
[154]
on the retaining bolt that
goes through the pads.
[157]
It's not essential,
[157]
you can take it off with your bare hands,
[159]
but it does make it a lot
easier and a little less fiddly.
[161]
And finally, you're going
to need some shop towel
[163]
or a clean rag to make sure
you can wipe the bike down,
[165]
and obviously to lay the
bits out on the bench.
[168]
And, some disc brake cleaner,
[169]
it's good as well to make
sure that all the parts
[171]
of your brakes don't have
any residue on afterwards
[173]
that can take the paint off your bike.
[175]
So, the first thing you need to do
[176]
is a bit of brake calliper preparation.
[178]
So obviously you need to get
the rear wheel out of the bike,
[180]
and out of the way.
[181]
In my case, it is a six
millimetre Allen key.
[184]
So, make sure the rear derailleur
is locked out and ready
[189]
so you can drop the wheel
out nice and easily.
[192]
Now it's really important
that you make sure
[193]
that you put your rear wheel
completely out of harm's way,
[197]
and what I mean by that is
making sure there's no chance
[199]
that any brake oil can go
[201]
anywhere near the rear disc rotor,
[205]
because contamination
is the number one thing
[208]
you do not want with brakes.
[210]
Completely hinders performance,
[213]
and you have to start fresh.
[214]
So, next up is getting
the needle nose pliers,
[216]
and very carefully just
removing the little clip here.
[220]
You don't want it to go pinging
off across the workshop.
[222]
There we go.
[224]
And as with any job, make sure
you take all the parts off
[227]
and put them in the order
that you will remember
[229]
when you reassemble things.
[232]
In this case, I'm just going
to put this on the bench here
[234]
because I'm going to
put the pads separate.
[236]
So, it's a two and a
1/2 millimetre Allen key
[238]
to remove the retaining bolt.
[241]
So, just unwind that from the calliper,
[246]
slide that bolt out,
[252]
and it's time to remove the pads.
[254]
Now, this is a really important bit.
[255]
If you've got dirty hands,
[257]
make sure they don't go near
the actual brake pad surfaces.
[260]
And of course, what you want
to do is make sure those pads
[264]
are kept completely safe and
away from any contamination.
[268]
So in this case, I'm
just going to put them
[269]
inside a bit of shop towel here.
[271]
Wrap that up and just keep
these here in the work stand
[274]
for later on so I know that
they're protected by that.
[276]
Last thing you need to do for
your brake calliper preparation
[279]
is slide the bleed block in place,
[281]
and it's got a little
slot running through it
[284]
so you can just keep it in
place with that retaining bolt.
[287]
So, I recommend you do do that
[290]
to just make sure that
it can't go anywhere
[293]
and your brakes are going
to feel absolutely perfect
[294]
once you've done this.
[297]
There we go.
[298]
Next stage is to get the
syringes ready for use,
[301]
so this is where the
rubber gloves come in.
[303]
So, I do recommend you use them.
[305]
So many people do it without,
[307]
and I'm guilty of not using
gloves a lot of the time
[309]
because of the way I like things to feel,
[311]
but I'll always use them when playing
[313]
around with stuff that's corrosive,
[314]
especially DOT brake fluid.
[316]
It's nasty stuff to get on your hands.
[318]
So, the first syringe you
want to fill up with fluid
[320]
is the one that goes into the lever
[322]
that's at the top of the bike.
[324]
This is one with the old
style cap on the end there.
[327]
And you'll want to fill this
approximately two-thirds full.
[329]
The next one is the one with
the bleeding edge adapter on,
[332]
which I'm just installing
here already for use.
[335]
Now, this needs a marginal
amount of fluid in it.
[337]
It's got to have some
fluid because it connects
[339]
to the actual calliper itself,
[341]
and you don't want a chance
[342]
of any air being able to
get into the calliper,
[344]
but you're bleeding from
the lever end to this end,
[347]
so that way it's going
to be purged into here.
[348]
So, as much room as possible for that all
[350]
to come through is what you're aiming for.
[353]
Now, when you fill these up,
[354]
do take care because you're going to need
[356]
to make sure there are no
air bubbles inside them.
[359]
So, you extract the oil
straight from the container,
[365]
then you need to ensure that
there's no air stuck in there.
[369]
And the way to do that is
carefully just get it upright
[373]
and put a rag over the end.
[376]
You don't want this to go anywhere,
[377]
especially not near your eyes.
[379]
And you just want to just
push the system through
[381]
just so you're getting rid of
that air that's just in there.
[384]
Like that, you can see it
rising up through the tube.
[385]
Repeat that same process
[387]
with the one with the bleeding edge on.
[389]
Again on this one,
[390]
you only need the tiniest
amount of fluid in here.
[394]
There we go.
[395]
So now, the syringe is all ready for use.
[399]
Again, don't forget, keep the gloves on,
[401]
make sure you've got
plenty of lint-free rag
[403]
or shop towel ready to
wipe up any spillages,
[406]
and of course, if it goes anywhere near
[407]
your frame, handlebars,
anything like that,
[410]
get it wiped and cleaned off using
[412]
this sort of disc brake cleaner
[413]
or an isopropyl alcohol
as fast as you can really,
[415]
just so it doesn't get any
damage to your paintwork.
[418]
Okay, so first up, starting
up at the bar end here.
[422]
It might make it easier to
do this job for yourselves
[424]
if you just have the lever horizontal,
[426]
so that makes it a little less messy,
[428]
and because you're going
to working from the back
[430]
of the bike as well as the
front at the same time,
[432]
it makes it easier to reach too.
[434]
So, using the T25, just
flatten off your brakes a bit.
[438]
If your bike has contact adjustment,
[440]
it's a little dial on the front here,
[441]
this particular one doesn't,
[443]
unwind it the opposite
direction of the arrow
[445]
on there until it stops.
[447]
Also, you want to make sure
the reach of the lever as well
[450]
is between 75 and 80
millimetres at the end
[453]
of the lever to the middle of the bar.
[455]
Next up, you want to get the T10
[456]
and remove the bleed
screw that is on the top.
[459]
Now, just be delicate as you remove this,
[461]
because you don't want to
disturb the bike too much.
[464]
You may lose a little bit of
fluid out of the top here,
[466]
just be ready for that,
[470]
and wipe up any excess
that just comes out.
[473]
Next up, it's time to insert
the syringe into the lever end.
[477]
Now, you just to make sure
[477]
that the little red pinch
is snapped shut on here,
[480]
because you don't want oil
to travel in there yet,
[483]
you're just sealing they system
with this at the top end.
[487]
Make sure that's threaded
in nice and straight,
[489]
and nice and snug.
[492]
I'm just going to give this
another wipe around here
[494]
to minimise the drippage.
[498]
Another little tip I like to use is
[501]
an extra piece of shop towel or rag.
[506]
I just put this under
the lever and around it,
[510]
so whilst I'm working on
it, it can catch anything,
[513]
and also it does mean
that I've got easy access
[515]
to stop it going anywhere.
[517]
Now, it is important to note
the fact that the levers
[520]
are obviously above the
front wheel of your bike.
[522]
If you think there's any danger
[523]
that dropping oil could go
near your front disc rotor,
[526]
remove your front wheel from the bike,
[528]
make sure it's stashed somewhere safely
[530]
so the disc rotor is
protected from dripping oil.
[533]
Next up is getting the bleeding
edge tool into the calliper.
[537]
So, let's do this.
[538]
First up, you want to just remove
[539]
the little rubber bottom there.
[542]
And, just put that aside for safekeeping.
[545]
Next is the four millimetre
Allen key head that's in here.
[548]
Now you just want to just loosen this,
[550]
and then just nip it up tight again,
[552]
but literally nip it tight.
[553]
As you do this, a drop of oil
might come out of the calliper.
[557]
Don't worry about this.
[557]
Of course, you might want to wipe it up.
[559]
We're obviously going to be pushing
[561]
more oil through this way.
[562]
This is just to make sure
[563]
that it's ready to receive the tool.
[565]
I'm just going to insert that into there.
[567]
There we go, just loosen that
and then just nip it tight.
[571]
It just means that your pressure's not
[572]
on the tool to undo that head in there.
[576]
Now next up is to take
the bleeding edge tool,
[581]
push it into the calliper,
[582]
and give it a firm push,
[583]
and you'll find it makes
a sort of a click noise.
[586]
So, with the tool located in place
[588]
so it clicks into place there,
[589]
you then want to open the system.
[591]
So, you want to undo this a turn.
[593]
Don't go more than two turns,
[595]
because the screw will come out
[596]
and all the oil will start coming out,
[598]
and you're going to have
to do this from scratch.
[601]
So, bear in mind that when you open this,
[603]
no oil is going to come through just yet
[605]
because the lever clamp is holding the oil
[607]
from coming through the lever end.
[609]
But, get this done right,
[610]
and you're ready to start
the bleeding process.
[612]
To start the bleeding process,
head up to the lever end,
[615]
and you're going to undo that lever clamp.
[617]
Then simply, you just want
[618]
to start pushing down on the plunger.
[620]
Don't go too fast.
[621]
You want to do this nice and
slowly to give any air bubbles
[624]
and muck in the system time
to sort of migrate through.
[627]
Now, you want to be looking
here at the calliper end
[630]
for any air bubbles and stuff coming out.
[632]
Now, note if you've got enough
fluid inside the lever end
[636]
to push through the whole system.
[638]
So, keep an eye on the discoloration
[640]
of the fluid coming out.
[641]
If it's particularly bad,
[642]
black even, stuff like that,
[644]
you might need to do this
again with another syringe full
[647]
of fluid just to make
sure the system has got
[649]
a complete load of nice, new, clean,
[652]
uncontaminated fluid in there.
[654]
Now, repeat pushing through
[655]
until there's no more air
bubbles coming out this end.
[658]
You don't need to go crazy on it,
[660]
because it's not completely finished yet,
[661]
just make sure the bulk of it is good.
[664]
With the calliper syringe vertical,
[666]
hold that in your right hand,
[668]
and then with your left hand,
[669]
just pull up on the lever syringe,
[671]
and you're looking for any air
bubbles just travelling up,
[674]
just like that little one there.
[676]
Couple of microscopic
ones, but good I think.
[679]
It's a good, clear system.
[681]
Nothing else travelling through.
[683]
Okay, so that is good,
[684]
there's no more air travelling
up at the lever end,
[688]
so now it's time to close
it at the calliper end,
[691]
and that means the system is closed,
[693]
but the syringe is still in place,
[694]
but that can stay there
for the time being.
[697]
Now we go up to the lever end.
[698]
What you want to do
here is bleed the lever,
[700]
and it's also about
pressurising the system.
[703]
So, with it all still open at this end,
[705]
don't forget it's closed
at the calliper end,
[708]
pull the lever in, and release.
[711]
Do this a couple of times,
[712]
and you just want to
push this into the lever,
[715]
and then pull out again a couple of times,
[718]
just making sure there's
no air coming of there.
[721]
So, I'm convinced now that
there is no air travelling
[724]
out of the lever itself,
[725]
so one final pull out on the syringe
[729]
and then push back in hard
just to pressurise the system,
[733]
and now it's time to just lock
[734]
the syringe clamp into place there,
[738]
and we're good to start removing this.
[740]
So now it's time to remove
the syringe from the lever.
[743]
Now just carefully unscrew this.
[745]
Again, just make sure that the clamp
[747]
on the hose is in place there,
[748]
because otherwise you're going
[749]
to have fluid pushing its way through.
[751]
As you do this, you will get
some leakage at the lever.
[756]
So, just try and wipe up any
bits of leak you have there.
[759]
There we go.
[760]
The bolt was recommended to be torqued
[762]
to 1.5 to 1.7 newton metres.
[766]
I'll check that in a minute,
[767]
I just want to make sure
[767]
that this is clean and contamination-free.
[772]
(cleaner sprays)
[774]
So, disc brake cleaner is ideal
[776]
for this because it dries up.
[779]
It's a dry solvent.
[780]
You can use contact cleaner
as well, or isopropyl alcohol.
[785]
Put the boot back on.
[788]
I'm happy with that.
[789]
So, I'll turn my brake lever
to the preferred angle,
[794]
which is quite low in
this particular setting.
[797]
Now it's time to close
the system at the rear,
[798]
and just make sure the calliper
is clean and contaminant-free
[801]
before putting the brake
pads back in place.
[804]
So now, with the lever
end of the bike closed,
[807]
repeat the same process
at the bottom here.
[809]
So, the first step is just to
remove the bleeding edge tool.
[812]
It comes out, and you'll
find that no oil comes out
[815]
because it's a nice, smart design.
[818]
The next thing is to nip up
[819]
the four millimetre bolt
that's underneath that.
[824]
Just make sure that's snug.
[826]
Now, it's recommended to be tightened
[828]
to 1.5 to 1.7 newton metres,
[830]
just like the one on the
lever, the T10 there.
[833]
So, you want to follow that up,
[834]
and then the next step
is to just make sure
[837]
that there's no fluid loss around there.
[840]
This is fine.
[842]
And then just replace the rubber plug,
[846]
and it's time to take the bleed block out.
[848]
Just give the calliper a clean,
[850]
because sometimes if
any oil has dripped out,
[852]
it would just be in a place
[853]
where the pad surfaces will be later on.
[855]
Then it's a case of replacing the pads,
[858]
putting the pin back through
and the circlet in place.
[861]
So there you go.
[862]
That is how simple it is
[862]
to use the bleeding edge
port system on SRAM's brakes.
[867]
So, it's pretty simple system,
[868]
nice and easy for
everyone to bleed at home.
[871]
Now, with that leftover
fluid that you've got,
[873]
the clean stuff,
[874]
you might want to mark this as unused,
[877]
so you keep that on your shelf separately,
[878]
and any old fluid,
[880]
I do recommend that you get that recycled,
[881]
get that disposed of correctly.
[883]
So, you're going to put that
in a different container.
[886]
Make sure that it's not
anywhere near food sources,
[889]
and don't just put it down the drain
[890]
because this stuff is not
good for the environment.
[893]
So, for a couple more useful videos,
[895]
if you want to find out how to hip jump,
[896]
nothing mechanical,
[897]
but it's a really cool video
[898]
with Blake kicking it
on some massive jumps,
[901]
click down here.
[902]
And if you want 10 ways
to refresh your bike,
[905]
it's a non-cost video really,
[907]
it's just about sensible
stuff in maintaining
[909]
and making the most out
of your bike for the year,
[911]
click down here.
[912]
As always, click on
the globe to subscribe.
[914]
We've got new content for
you every single week,
[917]
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