馃攳
How to build a brick barbecue - YouTube
Channel: Silverline Tools
[0]
hi I'm Craig Phillips and in this video
[2]
I'm going to show you how to build your
[3]
own brick barbecue the tools in the
[10]
materials you'll need is a barbecue kit
[12]
brick shovel brick trowel brick hammock
[16]
pointing trowel tape measure gloves and
[19]
goggles knee pads spirit levels and sand
[22]
and cement now it's important when
[26]
choosing the style of brick that you're
[28]
going to use for your barbecue because
[29]
of course they must be able to perform
[30]
the roof of a barbecue so when you do
[33]
purchase them make sure that have a
[34]
grade-a engineering brick or a file and
[36]
brick now the first stage is to set the
[40]
area if you barbecue out whilst it's dry
[43]
place your grid into the center and
[45]
start to lay the bricks out around
[47]
leaving about the 10 15 millimeter gap
[49]
between the grid and the brick and each
[52]
brick that you're laying out once you're
[54]
happy that it all fits in take your
[56]
pencil start to mark off where let's go
[59]
to sit and then you're ready to start
[63]
doing your mix the barbecue structure is
[67]
only going to be small but we do want it
[68]
to be strong so we're going to make a
[69]
strong mortar mix and this consists of
[72]
sand and cement the ratio we require is
[75]
three lots of sand
[76]
I want cement and when it makes this
[78]
will dry and then I'm going to apply
[79]
water
[87]
now before you add water and complete
[89]
your mix you can also consider having
[91]
the colored dye to the mortar to give it
[94]
a darker color when it's complete it
[97]
coming various different colors make
[98]
sure you measure it out and read the
[100]
instructions on the back
[110]
[Music]
[113]
now you're ready to apply your water
[116]
[Music]
[129]
that's a mix now complete and that's the
[131]
kind of consistency we're looking for
[153]
now we're ready to start laying the
[155]
first course of bricks as you can see
[157]
I'm laying these directly on top of
[159]
these concrete slabs we already know
[161]
we've got a concrete base underneath
[163]
here suitable to take the weight of the
[165]
barbecue if you're going to be building
[167]
this on too soft there you're going to
[169]
have to dig yourself out a strip
[170]
foundation later on concrete let it dry
[172]
so that's sufficient to take the weight
[174]
of your barbecue now with your brick
[177]
trowel you want to create a little small
[179]
roll of mortar so you keeps handing it
[183]
over with your trowel till you get that
[186]
shape and then you can place it over
[189]
your marked area to get your first bed
[197]
into position
[208]
[Music]
[214]
police in the first brief directly onto
[218]
your mortar bed pressing it down just
[220]
gently and you'll see the mortar of
[224]
starter booze out to the sides here
[231]
yourself your small spirit level
[233]
double-check that it's sitting level and
[241]
then you can get your second brick
[243]
you're going to have to replace some
[245]
mortar on the end of this one once
[251]
you've applied it on to the sides wipe
[253]
it off with your trowel and then pass it
[255]
down a fraction and then you can bed
[260]
that on to the second one
[264]
[Music]
[269]
again taking your spirit level and then
[281]
continue to leg your mortar onto the
[283]
slab just pressing it down at the front
[286]
of the trail to create a little small
[288]
gap in there
[288]
and in your back horse it's going to be
[291]
but up to it here so what you need to do
[293]
is you put some cement on this side of
[295]
the brick or on the edges of this one
[297]
sometimes it's a little bit easier to
[299]
put it on the edge of that one that's in
[302]
position again you check in with your
[315]
spirit level you're making sure this
[320]
first course is perfectly level you
[322]
might find that your sub base isn't
[323]
completely accurate if it's not you just
[325]
have to compensate that with the first
[327]
bed of mortar now that's your first
[330]
course complete make sure you scrape off
[333]
any excess mortar just check with your
[335]
grid that it fits in the center and
[337]
you've got that 15 millimeter gap all
[340]
the way around the outside double-check
[342]
it's level right across and you ready
[345]
start laying the second quart the first
[348]
brick of the second course needs to
[350]
straddle across the bottom layer by 50%
[353]
to create that brick wave effect again
[358]
we lay a second better mortar on top of
[361]
the brick
[366]
[Music]
[368]
what we're trying to create is to get an
[370]
equal amount of morph across the top
[372]
course of the brick that's probably
[373]
about 20 25 millimeters deep we'll take
[376]
our brick we straddle it across 50% on
[380]
each of them gently tap it down until
[392]
we've got between a 10 and a 15
[394]
millimeter bed of mortar between bricks
[404]
we're happy with that we get our small
[407]
spirit level and we double-check we've
[411]
got this level on both sides
[422]
[Music]
[426]
then our next brick we butcher the edge
[429]
of it up like we did with the first
[430]
course again trying to get an equal
[436]
amount of mortar on the brick and we
[441]
place that into position gently tapping
[445]
it down and cutting off any excess
[450]
mortar that oozes out now we've got two
[455]
courses in position we can also put the
[457]
spirit level up right against the sides
[460]
to check that we're nice and plump now
[464]
again when we come to this corner we
[466]
could alter the brick up onto the one
[467]
side and push it against it or we can
[469]
always put it onto the edge of the brick
[472]
there which sometimes is a little bit
[473]
easier when we come to these corners
[482]
now with the second course start to
[484]
straddle over the first course it leaves
[487]
us with two halves on the end which have
[489]
to be cut real simple to do it there's a
[491]
couple of ways one is with the brick
[493]
humming simply start to gently tap the
[497]
brick where you like it to break of
[500]
course is in the middle of this one once
[503]
you start to see Rick fracture flashing
[506]
you can start to hit it a little bit
[508]
harder and it will break into choke what
[512]
you must do is when you're laying these
[513]
on butter up the broken edge of the
[515]
brick and make sure that's bedded into
[518]
the face of that brick so we've got the
[519]
cleaner manufactured edge shown on the
[522]
corner
[526]
[Music]
[536]
[Music]
[545]
now drying time is very important
[547]
whenever you're doing any brickwork I've
[549]
done four courses here leave it for
[551]
about an hour or so to start drying out
[552]
before you put any more courses on
[554]
always double-check it's not too wet
[556]
along the bottom because the weight of
[558]
course will make it want to spread out
[560]
now once you've got so many quarters on
[562]
it start to go off a little bit it's
[564]
time to start pointed you can see at the
[566]
moment the mortar in between here is a
[567]
little bit uneven because we're just
[569]
betting the brakes on and we're trimming
[570]
it off if you've got any small areas
[573]
where there's gaps in there starts off
[574]
if you put yourself just get a small
[576]
amount on and then started fill em in as
[579]
best as possible you'd always try to
[581]
keep the brick clean of course you get
[584]
it in you don't have to what have been
[585]
too neat at the moment just about
[588]
filling in any of the gaps then once
[598]
you've more or less filled in the gaps
[600]
in there you can then start to point
[603]
them up two different ways you can use a
[605]
weather strong point to which you get
[606]
your points and trowel and then you
[608]
start to just press in the mortar
[612]
creating a nice smooth black and you
[615]
kind of cut off any excess mortar that
[618]
hangs over the brick and you create a
[620]
nice smooth area so it can be waterproof
[622]
with the weather leave that to dry for a
[627]
little bit longer and then you get your
[628]
soft brush and wipe it off and it kind
[630]
of break off any of these little edges
[631]
and also clean the brick at the same
[633]
time alternative you can have a pointing
[636]
bar like this where you can get a thing
[637]
called a bucket handle pointing where
[640]
the bucket handle pointing is you use
[641]
the edge of that to literally push the
[644]
water in it's creating more of a deeper
[648]
pair to the edge of the brick
[652]
and again it's making it nice and smooth
[655]
so of course it's waterproof for any
[658]
driving rain should come in on it
[662]
[Music]
[667]
we planned quite a fair bit of pressure
[670]
on the pointing bar kind of scraping off
[673]
any excess mortar that's gone on the
[676]
edges of the brick you just created a
[678]
nice little weather proof barrier now
[683]
I've done the point and I've left it to
[684]
dry off for another ten minutes or so
[686]
just get myself a brush and then I'll
[688]
just start to brush over the face of it
[690]
before it completely dries now as you
[695]
can see I've started to lay the eighth
[697]
course off but over this side I've
[698]
stepped these three bricks out and
[701]
that's going to take the weight of the
[702]
charcoal grid which of course will sit
[705]
on here and we'll do the same again that
[708]
size so we lay the mortar
[710]
exactly as we have done on all the other
[712]
courses but this time we place the first
[716]
brick staggerin over the brick way so
[721]
it's standing out proud on both sides I
[723]
lay down its position across that joint
[726]
and then my next course or brick I'm
[728]
going to butter up one side of it there
[739]
[Music]
[744]
and then I'm going to apply that brick
[747]
this shard here
[750]
and I'm leaving a space for about a
[754]
quarter of a brick there and then the
[756]
opposite end of it will be a 3/4 brick
[759]
which will sit into here we need to lay
[761]
three of these out
[770]
[Music]
[776]
just bridge it across mix your way
[782]
[Music]
[785]
yeah they're perfectly level on that
[787]
side now
[801]
[Music]
[812]
and we later shared one along here
[817]
[Music]
[819]
that way back button up one side of the
[822]
brick I'm pressing it against that
[826]
Center one and the same event on here
[828]
the mortar going to hold them nice and
[830]
solid in between
[842]
[Music]
[862]
[Music]
[865]
that's the last break on the ninth court
[868]
and it's a standard stretch of course
[870]
the same as all the rest of the ones
[871]
below and it's sitting directly on top
[873]
of these bricks that are stepping out to
[875]
hold the charcoal grid in position now
[878]
the next course is the tenth course
[879]
which again it's going to be stepping
[881]
out on both sides and this will be
[885]
holding the cooking grill in position
[887]
which should be at this level
[893]
[Music]
[908]
now that's the last brick laid on the
[910]
top core
[911]
double-check that it's all level a
[912]
couple of things that you must remember
[914]
whenever you do in any form of brickwork
[915]
on a barbecue like this pick the right
[918]
brick first of all setting out is
[920]
important because the first course
[921]
dictates where the rest of them are
[923]
going to go when you're mixing your sand
[925]
and cement course get the ratio right in
[927]
between each course of brick where the
[929]
bed that your layer of cement must be
[931]
more or less the same size and then of
[933]
course the Pips in between must be
[935]
vertical and level and there's your
[937]
barbecue complete and of course you can
[940]
put some quality tiles along the top
[941]
just to finish it off now if you want to
[943]
see any more helpful videos please visit
[945]
the website silverlinetools.com
[950]
[Music]
[958]
you
Most Recent Videos:
You can go back to the homepage right here: Homepage