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How Long Will My Investments Last In Retirement? - YouTube
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A 10% annual payout
in retirement income is doable.
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In this episode, I'm going to address
the question "How long will my
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investments
last in retirement?" Now, you wouldn't
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believe how many times I've been asked
that question. And of course ,it's a
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function of
where is your money invested. If it's in
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a mattress,
not very long. If it's in a bank, not much
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better.
If it's in the market, I don't know what
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the market's going to do.
So, I'm going to teach you how to create
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predictable rates of return and be able
to know exactly how long it will last
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as long as you do. Are you ready?
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So, I'm Doug Andrew and I've been a
financial strategist
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and helped people plan for retirements
where they don't outlive their money
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now for north of 46 years. My favorite
vehicle by far is
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the tax free bucket, i call it. I
really believe that people should have
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from 40 to 60 percent of the
retirement income
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in that bucket. Most people don't even
know
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what's in that bucket. Maybe they think a
Roth would fit in there.
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Yeah. Or municipal bonds. They're shocked
when I tell them where I have
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60% or more of my retirement
money, what bucket
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generates predictable income that will
last as long as I do.
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But when people ask the question, "How
long will my
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investments last?" I need to know more
information, right?
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Where is your money invested? It's pretty
pathetic how many people have
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a lot of money in very low yielding
accounts maybe with banks or credit
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unions earning 1 or 2
percent. It's not going to last very long
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in there unless you have
so much money that 1%
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interest will cover your living cost of
living needs.
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And cover you if inflation doubles the
cost of living every 7 to 10 years
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which
it will likely do. When people say, "Golly,
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how long will my retirement accounts
give me
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income?" It's based upon the rate of
return
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and also what strategies are you using
to have inflation work for you instead
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of against you? And how are you protecting yourself from
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market volatility
because most people who came to me at
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retirement
which is totally different than for
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retirement planning.
They were way, way too top-heavy
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in the investment bucket where they had
money in yet to be taxed
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IRAs and 401Ks in the market.
And I would go, "What are you thinking?
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You should not have your money in the
market due to
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that volatility. A broker dealer will not
allow their advisors, their asset
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managers to show predictable
income out of a portfolio of money in
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mutual funds in the market.
Usually at best at 4-percent payout."
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Pretty pathetic that every million,
they will only recommend you take out
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40,000
a year? 4%? And that's not tax
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free in most
situations. It's a tax deferred IRA or
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401K.
You're not netting 40. You're only
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netting maybe 27,000
thousand to 30,000 in most
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people's tax brackets.
And they charge you 1% on the
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million if you subtracted the fee from
that.
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You're only netting maybe 2%.
That's pretty pathetic.
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That's like having your money in a bank
earning 1 or 2 percent and I would
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not recommend that.
I have shown people how to predictably
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earn
between 7 to 10 percent average.
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Meaning some years, I've earned 16%, 25%.
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There was one year i earned 55%, another
year
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41 point something. Yeah, there are the
real banner years but
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when I made money in those years, if the
next year or 2 the market went down
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I didn't lose the 55% I made the
year before.
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See, most people if they have a banner
year when they make money,
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they lose it in future years when the
market corrects or comes down.
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What I like to do is lock in my gains
anytime I make money so I don't ever
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lose in the future the money i made in
the past.
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And that's called lock in and reset
which is the subject of another
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educational video on this channel if you
search that. But I want you to
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understand that there is what I call a
tax and
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inflation power curve that erodes away
most people's
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retirement nest eggs sooner than later.
Let me explain that for you.
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So, when people say, "How long will my
investments last?'
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Well, I don't know enough. If it's in the
market, usually
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DalBar who studies market behavior
says that you should assume no more than
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about 3.49%
because people buy and sell at the wrong
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times.
If they bought and held, they might earn
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9 and net 6.
Most people they only earn about
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3.5% and that's why the
financial services industry
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has that 4-percent rule is what they
call it. You're only supposed to take out
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4% a year
because they don't want to be sued for
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you out living your money.
Well, I have been earning 7 to 10
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percent. Where?
Well, I want to make sure that whatever
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strategy
I use wherever i want my serious cash,
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I want it to eliminate three big dangers.
Now,
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these three dangers that erode away most
people's money or
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cause them to outlive their money before
they run out of money before they do.
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Taxes,
the negative impact of taxes because
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they didn't realize
that if they pull out let's say
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90,000 a year. Let's say they have 1 million
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dollar nest egg, and they say, "Oh! No, I've
been earning 9%."
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9% would be 90,000.
They pull out 90,000,
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they're only netting 60,000
because a third of it goes out the
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window in taxes.
And they're only netting 60(thousand). Well, they
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may say,
"If we tighten our belt, 60,000 a year,
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5000 a month, we think we can make it."
And then they forget about inflation.
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Well, inflation
has been averaging almost 10 percent
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people say, "No, that's not what I've heard."
Well, that's because the government
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changes the way they report inflation.
See, they now have the right to say, "We
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will compare the cost
of beef from one year to next. But we
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choose if we want to compare Filet
Mignon,
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we can change it to comparing it to
hamburger the next year instead of
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filet mignon to filet mignon." Really?
Yep. Medical costs, health care costs,
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they're through the roof.
So, the actual cost of living is
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different than the annual inflation rate
that
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sometimes the government throws out
there in a number of 3
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or 4 or 5 percent. No.
Some costs are going up 10, 15 and 20
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percent.
You cannot be rowing upstream at the
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rate of 1, 2 or 3, 3 陆 miles an hour and the current of
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inflation is coming down at six seven or
8.
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You're going backwards. So, you need to
earn a rate of return that's equal
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to or greater than the inflation rate.
So, what I've always done is linked my
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returns
to inflation. To the things that inflate.
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So, inflation which I don't like any more
than you probably do. But it doesn't hurt
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me, it helps me.
If inflation goes to 5, I've usually
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earned at least 10 or more.
If inflation is 10, I earn 15. If it goes
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to 20, I earn 25.
Because I link my returns to the things
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that inflate by using
indexing. You wouldn't believe how many
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financial advisors have no clue how to
do that.
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They think i'm talking about indexed
funds. No.
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Index funds means your money's at risk
in the market. And when the market goes
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down you lose.
Indexing my money's not in the market. I
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get
credits when the market goes up. But when
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the market goes down, I don't lose
because my money is not in the market.
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And so, this is what has given me the
average returns of 7 to 10 percent
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tax-free. Even though some years, I've
earned 16 and
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25 and 55 percent by using multipliers
which we teach about in other
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educational videos.
Here's the key: Are you wanting your
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money in a
tax deferred, in other words, yet-to-be
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-taxed account
the rest of your life? You want to
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eliminate taxes, you want to get the
taxes over and done with and convert to
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tax-free.
You want to have inflation work for you
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instead of against you. And then number
3, you want to protect yourself from
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market volatility.
That's why I use indexing. So, when the
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market goes down, I don't lose. When the
market goes up, I
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make money. And so, generally, in a 10-year
period,
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in any 10-year period since the great
depression, there will be 7
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up years compared to 3 down years. In
the decade, the worst decade since the
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great depression,
2000 to 2010 even going to 2012,
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there were 5 down years compared to
5 up years.
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And I averaged 7.23% in that
worst decade using indexing.
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By adding a second strategy that we
teach on this channel,
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rebalancing, I was able to increase my
return to 10.07%
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in the worst decade. And I've been
earning an average of 10
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net cash on cash tax free for the last
27 plus years.
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The key message here is that you want to
create a strategy so that your
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investments
will last as long as you do. That if
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inflation doubles the cost of living
every 7 to 10 years,
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your income will stay with that. You will
be able to have the same
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purchasing power. You'll be tax
free instead of having to pay tax
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forever on your IRA, 401K distributions.
And you want to protect yourself from
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market volatility. So, eliminate the
dangers of taxes, inflation and market
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volatility.
How do you do that? Would you like to
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learn? This
is why i am so passionate about
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education because
you can't be aware of something you're
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not aware of. You don't know what you
don't know.
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So, this is why I've written 11 books.
This book is 300 pages and you'll be
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blown away.
It's actually two books in one. See, you
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flip it over and you got this side.
This is 14 chapters with all kinds of
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charts and graphs and explanations about
one of my favorite vehicles.
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A max-funded, indexed-universal life
insurance contract
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where I have averaged in excess of 10
internal rates of return cash on cash
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after all fees and costs for the last 27
years.
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And most people, most financial advisors
don't have a clue how to do this.
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So, I wrote my 11th book and i call it
The Laser
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Fund because it eliminates those 3
dangers --taxes, inflation and market
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volatility.
And it shows you how to convert to tax
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free have inflation work for you instead
of against you.
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And eliminate the dangers of market
volatility.
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And your money is liquid, safe and earns
predictable rates of return.
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It's liquid assets safely earning
returns. Which spells the acronym LASER.
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So, I call it The Laser Fund. Now, if you
like to learn by stories, you flip the
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book over. This is 12 chapters on this
side with 62 actual client
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stories of how this is used not only for
retirement
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but emergency funds, college funding,
real estate management, working capital,
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for business estate planning, on and on
and on.
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If you want to use your whole brain, your
left brain and your right brain,
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read the whole book. But I'll pay for the
book.
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I'll buy the book. You claim your free
copy by going to
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laserfund.com. Laserfund.com.
You simply pay $5.95 shipping and
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handling. I'll fire out a free copy
to you and there's options there to get
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the audio
and video if you like to listen and
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learn and watch and learn. But it all
begins
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with you empowering yourself. It's time
you took ownership for your own
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retirement so you don't
outlive your money.
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