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Creality CR 10 S5 3D printer Upgrades, Z Axis Rods, TL Smoothers, Petsfang, and Observations - YouTube
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اليوم وسوف أطلعكم على بعض التعديلات حاولت على بلدي CR 10 S5.
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هذه الطابعة 3D ضخمة، وأنها تتطلب سرعات بطيئة جدا لطباعة حتى البقاء
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ترقبوا نتائج غير متوقعة حصلت أو بالأحرى ما وضعت مشاكل أخرى
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بينما كان يحاول تعديل هذه الطابعة وتحسين ذلك، ولكن على ما يبدو لي الحظ I
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فقط جعل الأمور أسوأ. لذلك أولا وقبل كل شيء حصلت على محور ض من آلات 3D صغيرة I
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تريد تقديم الدعم لهم لأنها تعطي الكثير من البرامج والبرامج الثابتة في الغالب ل
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حر. وأول شيء فعلته على هذه الطابعة 3D هو مجرد تحديث البرامج الثابتة
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وتحسنت تلقائيا عملية التسوية السرير لأنه قبل أن
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Creality CR 10 S5 الأصلية الثابتة التي جاءت طابعة 3D مع ستفشل عندما
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كنت تفعل التسوية شبكة السرير وانها عملية يدوية لذلك كما ترون
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أنا التنصت هذه القضبان فتحة V لكنني لم كان ضعيفا لا تأخذ بعين الاعتبار
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مسامير التي تربط القضبان فتحة V لذلك النوع من دمر علامة التبويب في نهاية المطاف I
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كان قادرا على تثبيت قضبان الدعم ض محور للطباعة 3D كبيرة أو وطويلة ل
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القضاء على الاهتزاز في الأعلى. الآن قررت لتثبيت smoothers TL ل
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تحسين أي إمكانية طباعة الجدران الخارجية أفضل من مع الأسهم
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اللوحة الأم. وعندما فتح إمدادات الطاقة اعتقد ان أغلفة السيطرة رأيت
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أن اللوحة الأم وحدات تحكم السائر المحركات انهم ملحوم على
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اللوحة الأم. حتى إذا كنت ترغب في رفع مستوى تلك التي لديها لرفع مستوى
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اللوحة الأم ولست متأكدا إذا كان أي شخص آخر حاول النوع من اللحام على رأس
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أو القيام بأي تعديلات لذلك أنا لست متأكدا. بالنسبة لي يبدو أن لديك فقط للحصول على
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another motherboard. Also as you can see
I am installing the TL smoothers and I'm
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using their own bags the anti-static
bags to cover them just in case to
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prevent any possible shorting. Because I
wasn't ready to kind of put them in a
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certain spot so I just will try to get
them in one side so they don't prevent
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the air moving through the box. After I
installed the TL smoothers I didn't see
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any improvement into the 3d prints. Nor
did I do any test
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to make differences in the improvement.
I had the TL smoothers from my
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previous 3D printer and I just installed
them believing that they'll make some
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difference. I think they may have
contributed to a tiny reduction in the
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noise as you can see right now or here
rather.
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So as you heard the sounds they're not
to me they seem almost as similar as
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when I got the printer maybe a little
bit lower but this is loud they're
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unbelievably loud to me, they're very
annoying. If you print something in the
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room like you can't, you you will hear it.
So what I decided to do for this 3d
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printer when it comes to bed leveling is
just print a very large brim from like
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20 or 30 lines and then just adjust the
knobs on the fly while is printing the
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brim before it gets to the 3d part you
need 3d printing. And I found that this
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method works best for me I mean I could
get the BL touch and all that, but then
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I have to modify it and it seems with my
luck I can rarely get them to work
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better than when they come from the
manufacturer with all the improvements.
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And I figured out that you need a kit
like you need to have a kit with the any
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3d printer like a kit of screws and
tools and spare parts that you should have
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on hand, and if you get into 3d printing
for the first time I think a kit it's in
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order to be purchased with the first 3d
printer because you would quickly want
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to modify things and you'll, you won't
find the screws or the necessary parts
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to improve it. So as you can see I
printed a very large vase and this is
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just the first half of the vase and what
you're seeing right now it's 6400 times
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faster than the normal video. Just to go
through and I printed this vase for five
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days and I printed 60 millimeters per
second and all the speeds were 60
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millimeters per second travel speed the
inner the outer wall everything. But I
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lowered the speed from the knob on the
3d printer because the quality was just
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horrendous. Taking it off I need to use a
hammer and a chisel and it was a lot of
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work was like half our work to take it
off. And I even chipped the glass a
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little bit and from my latest
investigations or studies it seems like
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this glass adds a lot of mass to the bed
and you can't use large speeds
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to print something on this 3d printer.
And this should be led like at very low
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speeds. And now I'm trying to install the
pet Fang with the stock base and this is
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a bad idea to just try to take the six
prong connector apart. I just wasted time
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there. If you have the patience to do it
and solder it back together, yeah you can,
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but if if you don't have the patience
don't even try to attempt it just cut
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the wire to the fan the stock fan and
then connect the 5150s if you want to use
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the PetsFang. However I am disappointed
with the PetsFang because most of the
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air blows behind the nozzle not directly
underneath. So I had to modify the
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existing PetsFang design and I posted it
on Thingiverse but I got flagged by the
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PetsFang team saying that this is not
open source and you can modify the user
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for yourself but you can't publish it. So
I took it down immediately and I guess
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you guys can modify it on your own put
it in blender cut a few notches in there
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and try to point it directly towards the
nozzle to divert some of the air on the
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PetsFang. But after I installed the PetsFang I started having problems with like,
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severe problems with under extrusions. I
thought installing the PetsFang is going
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to improve the cooling and anything. But
because I kind of loosened up the Bowden
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tube I think that's when I started
having under extrusion problems so I
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couldn't fix that at all so I decided to
make it into a direct extruder 3d
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printer. But by the time I made that this
video was already shot and you're seeing
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like the improvements and I hope you're
gonna draw from my experience if you get
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this large 3d printer or any large 3d
printer you may not want to keep it as a
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non direct extruder I know the name of
the other one like the Bowden tube. But
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the point is I think it's the vacuum
valves that connect the Bowden tube,
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those are at fault in this model. I found
out a little later and I don't have them
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to test that theory. And even though I
installed a Capricorn tube it would
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still give me a lot of headaches and I
just transformed this into a direct
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extruder printer and it printed quite
well as a direct extruder. And the PetsFang
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is not really great in this
situation. Maybe there's a pet Fang with
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the direct extruder modular thingy but
the one I used was Hero and with that
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opportunity I also printed my first petg.
It was, the first print actually failed
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and I changed the Z hop and the
extraction and I just 3d printed a
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hundred percent infill into the
mechanism and it successfully printed.
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And then I moved the extruder to direct
extruder. And I moved the stepper motor
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and then that was a problem with the
cables and let me tell you this printer
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is not the greatest printer to work with.
Because you have to extend the cables
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you have to do a lot of modifications
when you start modifying the stock. So
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honestly I also bought another stock
extruder or 3d head completely stock so
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rather than just modifying the current
head if I run into a problems I just
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gonna I'm just gonna put back to the
stock head and I have the extruder
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motors to use them rather than just
messing around. Because I feel that
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sometimes you do this but you run into
other problems. And it is quite nice
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having two print heads and you can
always go back and undo the changes
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there you may do and you may do them
wrong so that's why I got the second 3d
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printing head. So stay tuned for the next
video with more updates on the
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Creality CR 10 s5 3D Printer
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