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What is an industrial blind hemmer (blind hemming machine) and how to use it. - YouTube
Channel: Gingerhead & Co
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Hello I'm Alex and this is Gingerhead & Co
my sewing vlog. Today I'm going
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to review this blind hemmer
Rittershausen Success BL06 and I'm going
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to show you how it works.
It's also sometimes called blind stitch
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or flat
felling machine. If you want to see more
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videos like this, please
like, subscribe and leave me a comment
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below.
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This is an industrial blind hemmer, it's
portable so it's not very big.
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I got mine from Babylock but it's not
made as Babylock, so, it's Success BL06.
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in the uk
it's sold by Sew Essential at the moment.
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It's about 450 pounds, 440.
It used to be sold by Frank Nutt but
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I'm not sure if they do them anymore.
it's made in Japan,
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mind you, if you order this particular
machine it might take ages to arrive
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because
for some reason it's sold from Germany
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so it travels
from Japan to Germany and then from
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Germany to the UK.
It's a single process machine, so it does
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blind hemming.
It does blind hemming really really well,
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on all sorts of
fabric. Depending on your model the speed
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is going to be
1200 to 1700 stitches per minute.
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When you buy it it comes almost ready
for use, but you will
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have to attach the clamp and the thread
holder.
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So you attach it yourself, it's a very
simple machine,
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there is nothing too complex about it.
You've got
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your needle here and the needle is
curved, and it's very important to check
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the system,
the needle system, so mine... it usually
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tells you what it is... mine is here: so
LW 6T. And I use
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three and a half needle (size) but if you are
doing
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something thinner it's going to be three,
if you're
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doing something thicker it's going to be
four -but again check your manual. it's
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always ready to work so you can start
sewing immediately.
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The motor is powered by electricity
basically. You get your machine- you get a
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set of
tools as well and an instruction
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manual -and as always in industrial
machines the instruction manual is very
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thin
and it doesn't tell you loads. You do
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need to oil
this machine and you do need to oil it
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rather
often ,much more often than any domestic
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machine,
and you lubricate it here - well in all
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the holes- so here,
here. here, here, here
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and you can slightly oil all the moving
parts, so even
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even that because that moves. That's the
table- if you are blind hemming cuffs,
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anything narrow, this is going to be
useful it's like a
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free arm in your machine and you can
screw it
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tight by using this clamp here.
I'm not sure how much you can see: this
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little clamp here
is for the table. Then
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threading . Threading is not difficult as
you can see I'm using a special
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thread for blind hemming. Some people
hate it, and you can easily
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use any sort of thread for your blind
hemming, I
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prefer this one, and as I said it's not
very difficult.
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It goes through here, then this is the
tension disc and this
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is the most important part of the
machine, so
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if there are any problems threading that
might be the only issue - that it doesn't
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go through
this space here. Make sure that it does,
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that it's threaded properly. Then you go
through here,
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through here, here and through the needle,
and it's not very easy to thread the
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needle because the needle is curved,
and mine is quite small in size so you
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might use a special tool
for threading your needle but that's
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it.
That's all the threading. It does have a
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protective plate here,
which I didn't attach, I can show you:
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looks like that.
It's see through and you attach it with
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this
little thingy here, it would be like that.
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Okay? And it protects your eyes from any
broken needles
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or anything else. Well in this particular
machine the needle is
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LW 6T,
for thinner fabric it's needle size 3,
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or 11 I think in the States you use a
different system, so
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it would be 11. Then there is size three
and a half
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for cotton generally, so anything that is
over 220 grams per metre to medium
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weight,
I would say, and then, size four for
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anything
thicker, and size four will go through
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wool and
really thick fleece. The machine can be
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used with
knit fabric and with woven fabric,
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it works really well on any sort of
fabric. So far I've never had any
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problems.
If you want to replace the needle, you
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will need to unscrew that.
Put the needle in and screw it back
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together.
So when you unscrew it you will see that
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this part
comes off as well. To start sewing, I will
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show you in a minute, but to start sewing
you simply
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lift the knee lift, put your fabric here
and you can start sewing. You can adjust
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the tension
by screwing that: that nut, right? So
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that's the tension nut.
To increase the thread tension turn the
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tension nut
away from you ,so it's going to be
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clockwise. To decrease
the tension you are turning the
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tension nut
towards you, so it's counter clockwise -
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this direction.
Then you've got this little screw here
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or not so little,
with "less" and "more" and it couldn't be simpler,
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could it? This is
adjustment for the penetration, so how
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much fabric
the needle penetrates- so how much of the
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fabric
the needle catches. So we're going to use
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less
for thicker fabric and more for very
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very thin fabric.
And it ranges from zero to seven, so
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again,
well, one - let's say between zero and one
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is going to be for super thick fabric,
and between six and seven, that is going
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to be for
super super lightweight silky types. Then
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you've got your hand wheel and you turn
it away from you,
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always away from you - this is an
industrial machine,
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away from you :) then there is another
thing, let me just
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grab the camera, there is another thing:
this
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rod is for "skip" or "no skip", so you can
see that it says
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"1:1 no skip" so it's going to be
every stitch,
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the needle is going to penetrate the
fabric every stitch.
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When you turn it to "skip", as I've got at
the moment,
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it's going to be every second stitch, so
you will catch a bit of your fabric
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every second stitch.
And this might be a bit hard to show you,
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but
if you want to change the stitch length
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you can.
You remove the side plate and you will
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see how much oil there is because there
is always some oil . I'm very generous
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with my oil.
You remove the screws that are holding
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the side plate,
you remove the side plate - with some oil
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in it -
and I'm not sure how much you can see
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in here, you've got, you can regulate the
stitch,
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the stitch length. When you look very
very closely and
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I don't think I can show it to you very
well, but let me try.
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When you look there, in here
there are some numbers there, I think
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they are from one to
eight, but I can't see it so I'm not sure.
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You turn it to regulate the stitch, to
make it longer or shorter.
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I'll screw the side plate back onto the
machine,
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it's ready to be used. The use is very
simple, as I said,
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you lift the knee lifter, put the fabric
under the foot, you do your stitching,
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so you do all your blind hemming, you
remove the work by
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turning the hand wheel, so that the
needle is up,
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and you just pull the the fabric from
under the feet,
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and that's it. It locks the stitches, you
don't need to do anything else. In this
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position
it will lock the stitches. Some people
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are worried that
it kind of damages the needle faster,
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maybe,
I haven't noticed that this way of
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finishing your stitches
damages my needle but maybe? If you are
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worried about that,
you can, again, use your knee lift you can
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cut the stitches and then remove them so
the needle is not pulled.
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Okay I'm going to do some samples very
quickly. So we can start hemming, as I
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said, you can use either
knits or wovens it doesn't really matter,
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all thicknesses,
you can pre-press your fabric but you
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don't have to, you can just fold it,
you will have to press your hem after
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it's hemmed.
So, press under or fold under and under
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again,
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depress that section by using your knee
lift,
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put your fabric under the foot, make sure
that
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the needle is going to penetrate through
your fabric,
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and go.
And we want to finish so I'm turning the
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hand wheel,
raising the needle to the highest
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position,
lifting or depressing that part by using
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my knee lift
and pulling the fabric from under
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the foot -
and it's locked, see: that stitch,
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the last stitch is locked and you can't
really undo it.
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Well, you can, if you undo that part,
but it goes through the loop
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and it's locked, it goes through the loop,
the last loop,
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so it's not going to unfold unless you
do that...
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so you remove the last loop and then you
can pull it easily.
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So as you can see it's a chain stitch on
that side I'm not sure if you can see,
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I'll take something black in a second.
Okay so it forms chain stitch on the
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wrong side of the fabric
and it looks like that, so, well blind
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stitch
it's meant not to be visible so I'm
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afraid in my
case you can't really see anything.
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Let's take something black. So I'm going
to fold under,
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and fold under again, the knee lift
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and let's finish, so raise the needle to
the highest position,
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pull to the back,
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the stitch is locked in the
last loop, ok? It won't unfold
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and... (sorry), can you see the stitches here?
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and that's the right side of the
fabric and when you press it
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all the little, almost invisible now, but
all the dots that you can sometimes see,
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are going to be
ironed out. Also, if you are lining your
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garment, so let's say that this is a
hem
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of my skirt and I'm going to line it and
the fabric is
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thick ,so let's say that I've finished
the
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hem, the edge of the fabric, in my case
it's overlocked,
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I don't want to turn it twice I just
want to have it
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thinner because it's going to be covered
by lining.
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I do that for my scuba dresses very
often, that I just
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overlock and do that, I'm going to show
you in a second,
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so I'm going to blind hem using the
overlocked
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edge as my guide. And finishing by
raising the needle to the highest
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position,
pulling my work from under the foot,
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and the stitch is locked. I'm afraid
you're not going to see anything now,
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but my thread goes here
and that's going to be the wrong side of
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the fabric, of the garment.
Okay so this is my hem and if the hem is
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going to be covered with lining
it won't show. Also on the really
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really thick fabric that method is
better
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because the hem won't show on the other
side, so it's going to be
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thinner, okay? and that's the blind hem -
it's pretty ridiculous that I'm trying
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to show you the blind hem that is meant
to be invisible but iIhope you can see
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the tiny dots,
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and it indicates where the needle went.
And the hems are super strong.
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It's a perfect little machine if you
have a home business,
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if you do a lot of hemming- that might be
a good investment for you.
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I have tried a few other models, I know
that you can buy them as cheap as
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200 pounds that might be an option for
you,
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I like this machine and it does feel
like something that is made in Japan so
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it
does feel very sturdy. I have never had
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any problems with it
it's quite intimidating because it's
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very fast, so as you might have noticed
I was trying to go slowly or slower than
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the machine can.
It can hem a full circle skirt in three
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minutes, which is brilliant I think,
and the hems last. I have never had a hem
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undoing.
I'm very happy with the machine I
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wouldn't recommend it to everyone
because this is an
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extra, so this is something that you can
live without.
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If you like hemming by hand or if you
use your
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blind hemmer feet on your regular sewing
machine,
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that will probably be a waste of money -
and it's not a cheap thing, so
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I'm not sure if everybody needs it but
for some people,
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who like their toys, it might be
something that that you want to look
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into. Thank you very much for watching,
see you soon, bye!
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