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Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesqui猫re Breaks Down His Fashion Career | Vanity Fair - YouTube
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you have to have this craving for new
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things in the world they are not only
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artistic things it could be a movie that
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could be a trip curiosity for other
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people and it's the way you transform
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that into fashion into clothes it's the
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best way a collection start is to be
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aware and curious about what is
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surrounding you in this world
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hi i'm nicolas and this is the timeline
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of my career
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i joined jean-paul gautier in 1990 it
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was a dream come true for me i went
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there and i show my drawings at the time
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there was really fashion teens drawing
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and they liked it so i get hired and
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they give me my first job fashion in the
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90s
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was a crazy place especially in paris it
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was a job for
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for strange people i would say for
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people with strange visions and and
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being a jean-paul gutier was being in
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the heart of the game it was the place
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to be the most desirable job
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in fashion at the time so i was
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absolutely amazed to be to be there in
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the middle of this incredible creative
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studio
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[Music]
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i joined valencia in 1995 as what was
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called a licensed designer so i was
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designing
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clothes for
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different countries asia south america
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and they were not let's say the most
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prestigious collection so i was
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designing bridals for renting i was
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designing a collection in japan that was
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called black roses there was for widows
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one day in 1997 so they offered me
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temporary the big job of artistic
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director but just for six months they
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told me
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at balenciaga that they were looking for
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someone famous and they wanted me to to
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do the in-between jobs to design the
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collection just for one time of course i
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agree that i took the job and eventually
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i stayed for 15 years i was young i was
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20 25 when i first started and i think i
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was 27 when i get the big job it was a
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brand that had disappeared from the
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fashion landscape for many years
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probably since cristobal valencia
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stopped his brand in in 1968
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so to be responsible for that rebirth
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it's probably what one of the things i'm
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the most proud about if i can say in my
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in my career yeah
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so i was named women's world designer at
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this year yeah in
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2001 and and
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i was 30 years old i remember flying in
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new york and at the time the cfda was a
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was a competition we were three
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nominated
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and i was nominated with carl gerfeld
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and i was nominated with alexander
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mcqueen and i remember going there
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thinking wow that's a great trip going
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to new york for a few days i'm going to
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enjoy myself but there is no way i'm
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going to win so i was surrounded by
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incredible people i mean it's always uh
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very impressive to be in america you
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know there was a lot of stars and a lot
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of designers and then my name was said
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and i have to say that this is something
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that i will never forget because the
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recognition so early the recognition of
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this industry of people that i admire
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that were physically around me in that
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room was something that
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that was unique and and so unexpected
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that they recognize very early my work
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and that that was very special
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with my relationship with the american
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audience and public that
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they were very quick in recognizing uh
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what i was doing at balenciaga sometimes
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quicker than european strangely so i'm
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always very thankful for that yes
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[Music]
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the liar bag had many names it says a
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lot about how much
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people loved that bag because they were
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making them
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our thing very exclusive and and very
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personal um i designed that by quite
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quite early it came out in 2001
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officially but it was on a shelf in my
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studio for at least a year that bag was
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asked
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because everyone was doing bags
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obviously and they told me at balenciaga
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just try one just like have fun you can
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try you know to design a bag so i did
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that bag
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and i put it in the studio and i
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remember especially kate moss at the
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time walking to the studio for a feeding
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and
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look at this little thing in the corner
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of the room and said this is a really
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cool bag i really want to wear that bag
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and and i remember chloe 70 or so like
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coming to paris
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she saw the bag the same so i realized
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that maybe it was time to try to
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distribute that bag so i think we
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manufactured 20 the first time and put
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them in a parisian store and i sent few
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bags of
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for my friends to wear the one who had
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the desire to wear it kate chloe and
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some other french editors and
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international editors at the time and
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then it became a success quite instantly
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it was crazy the reaction that the world
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of fashion and the customer had for that
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bag demanding that back to every
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department store around the world and it
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can
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become phenomenal if i did not have
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designed that bag at the time i would
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have never become an artistic director
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at louis vuitton this is really
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where i show
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that i could design more than clothes
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that i could design handbags that i
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could design shoes that i could do
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jewelry like i could design a full
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silhouette that my vision was complete
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that bag became timeless items and it's
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very very special when you have
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something that survive that long in
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fashion and become a new iconic classic
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so i'm very proud of that yeah
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[Music]
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that's my introduction to dressing
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hollywood and to dress for red carpet
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and it was with jennifer connelly and i
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had to be in japan at the time for work
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i have a japanese breakfast in a hotel
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room with some colleague
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and then we are watching the scars on tv
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and she won my phone started ringing it
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was new york times everyone was calling
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everyone went to the quote everyone
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wanted to speak about the dress so the
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day after was was a different experience
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there was a terrible contrast between
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the appreciation of the dress and people
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who loved it so much and some who hated
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it so much so i learned a lot about like
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what became such very harsh judgment for
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actresses around the world with their
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dress but some people said it was a mop
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and some others said it was brilliant
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and excellent and such a new proposition
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for red carpet that he was a game
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changer and some others said it was
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trash and he was ashamed to design that
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kind of dress for the award so
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i was
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really experiencing a mixed feeling of
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judgment and
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and yeah and then i was ready to do many
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more
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so in 2013 when i was schooled to join
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the house of viviton in a year where i
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had decided to stop for two seasons
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which is very long in fashion to stop to
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work for two seasons you skip one show
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it's already complicated you skip two
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shows you feel you're an outsider and so
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when viton called me and said okay we
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would like you to become the artistic
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director
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i was really annoyed because
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it's a house i admire for many years and
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also
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it was a huge step for me my first
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vision of at return was
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was the fact that we needed to define an
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aesthetic that was functional
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because we've written is very functional
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luxurious because obviously it's
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emblematic from what is the ultimate
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luxury that was what i wanted to say but
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also their choice to hire me was also to
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play the game of fashion they didn't
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wanted something timeless
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only or something that was classical
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they wanted a true proposition and i
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think
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mark jacobs did an incredible work for
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16 years and to be asked to be
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the second designer at ritu after mark
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was already a great owner my vision was
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really to
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develop a wardrobe that was going to
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grow season after season the pressure
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was very high obviously but i tried to
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stay
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very quiet and i remember walking that
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room and feeling something very warm and
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nice and and
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and people were like
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like addressing something very positive
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to me
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uh like like they missed me they missed
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my work they missed my point of view
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they were happy to see
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what i had to say that day for my first
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day my first show at riverton the first
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bag i did designed for louis vuitton is
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called the petit mall it's kind of a
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miniature of a trend i went for lunch
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with bernardo and we were talking about
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my vision for louis vuitton and i said
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you know it's funny my intuition is
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telling me that we should
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make a version
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of the traveling trunk
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but in a small way for a woman to carry
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during
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her day during her night something that
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is super functional but had the values
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of the house that says in one look this
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is rewritten and he loved that idea
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sometimes i'm wondering if i get the job
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because of that idea only
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not not now to steve but i think there
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was really a
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tilt for him a click he was like okay
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the guy
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has a vision that is interesting for the
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brand but it might is a good luck
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he's a good luck items for me today
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there is not one show without a petite
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man we design like a few new
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propositions every season and people
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love it some people collect them there's
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people that have like hundreds of them
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this is very impressive
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i have a lot of love for for that first
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design following
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[Music]
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so may 14 2017 i was in kyoto presenting
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my cruise collection
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in a wonderful museum called the mijo
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museum in the middle of a
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green valley
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this is an extraordinary landscape and
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we choose that location for um our
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cruise show at louis vuitton 600 guests
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were flying from all around the world at
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the time celebrating japan who is one of
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my you know favorite place to be
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japanese culture so rich and so it was
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an intense moment it was a very
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full moment uh inspiring inspired uh
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with friends and and and a lot of people
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we had a great show it's always very
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uh
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incredible to be able to travel with a
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collection for a cruise show um we did
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few
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we did one
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in rio we did one in new york we did one
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um in palm springs and so every time
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it's a it's a great experience to carry
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the collection somewhere else and to
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make a different proposition than the
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fashion week in paris so in kyoto that
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day it was a great moment of joy but
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what was happening in paris in fact was
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an extreme joy too because it was the
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investiture of emmanuel macron and
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brigitte macron was wearing for the
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second time my outfit for this
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investiture and she walked the courtyard
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of the elysee palace with my outfit to
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what was waiting for her is to become a
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first lady so i will always remember
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that moment when we were in the middle
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of this crazy extravagant fashion show
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in kyoto and on the other side of the
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planet brigitte macron was becoming
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first lady in my outfit i enjoy so much
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dressing bridget macron she's a very
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charismatic and solar person
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someone very generous so inspiring to
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dress and so she approached me to
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work with her or to talk with her about
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her look a few months before
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emmanuel macron was going to become
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candidate for the presidential election
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in france so yeah it was an honor to
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help her
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if she doesn't really need help to be
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honest she has a divine test and this is
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not only
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getting dressed this is representing an
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industry that is
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making a lot of jobs creating a lot of
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economy and brilliant is very
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aware and responsible
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and she wants to promote
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this and for someone like me
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of course it's very
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enjoyable to see her supporting our
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industry so much
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[Music]
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louis vuitton has been a partner in a
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sponsorship for the louvre museum in
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paris for many years they
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proposed us to show inside the museum
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which was the first ever no one has ever
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done obviously a fashion show in the
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museum so i was super nerd super happy
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to be asked we are able to pick up the
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place we wish to show so this is quite
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you know special it could be
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complicated to confront you know fashion
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to the most beautiful art around the
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world but
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again
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what's beautiful it's the atmosphere
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it's to see
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you know you do a show in between you
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know the culture or the paintings and
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the way there is a response there is an
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environment that is about art and it's
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and it's it's great you know it's uh
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it's i'm not afraid of an acronym in my
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show i'm not afraid to mix different
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period of times together and to
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sometimes make a strange proposition in
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my clothes when it can look like a
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costume or it could look like a like a
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futuristic outfit you know and it's
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really i think something that
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very emblematic of my work so yeah i
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mean being of the most one of the most
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beautiful museums in the world to do a
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fashion show makes sense it's incredible
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to do that yeah if i knew when i was a
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kid visiting the museum that uh one day
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i would show inside the louvre
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it would have been like no never it's
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never gonna happen
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and yeah it's real so yeah that's cool
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i was always very curious about
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virtuality anticipation
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and that's something that i have
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integrated in my work very early on in
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my in my career in my design so
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it was quite natural at some point to go
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to the virtual world and to collaborate
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with the virtual world the story first
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started with lightning
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the character of final fantasy that
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became a louis vuitton ambassador in my
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campaign few years ago so that was my
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introduction finally to this world and
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also to say to the people that we were
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going to create virtual outfit for
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virtual characters in the same timeline
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obviously we were doing real design so
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lightning was a great start and it was
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fascinating to
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collaborate to give the clothes to
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design the clothes with the studio in
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tokyo and and to see the clothes and
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movement digitalized uh so that was my
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first approach and then later on when uh
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leagues of legend approaches to to
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design for c9 and kiana a special outfit
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for the games uh i said yes right away
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[Music]
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because of the pandemic and because of
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the situation around the world i have
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decided last year to shoot
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the campaign myself and to
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in a very humble way i have decided to
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become a photographer which which is a
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big challenge i have this relation with
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models with talents with actress for
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many years and
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they are very important in my aesthetic
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and
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i thought it was interesting to try to
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not only to dress them but to capture
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this emotion this face this body
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language that i know so well working
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with them and try to reflect that in a
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picture so i started that few months ago
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and i enjoy it so much i mean again i've
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been working with like incredible talent
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an incredible photographer for years so
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i know exactly this is a serious job
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and you need to have
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a certain asset so i'm doing it in a
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very spontaneous way
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but i enjoy it so much and
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i learned a lot and i love this is a
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different relationship when someone is
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on the other side of the camera and
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you're trying to capture what you think
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you know from them or what you know from
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them
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and i love this the fact to share that
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emotion taking pictures so i'm gonna
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shoot myself campaign now so
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i guess you know it's a it's a great new
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hobby i would say a new
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passion i'm hiding now in my career so
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i'm i'm really
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i'm really looking forward to do more
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pictures
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i think now the way
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fashion is becoming responsible is very
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important i'm talking about reflecting
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the world of today sustainability
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obviously inclusivity there is so much
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people that are curious and interested
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into fashion for the last decade
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we have to grab that moment and don't
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let it go and communicate messages that
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are very positive and make things evolve
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so i think this is a responsibility in a
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way that we have so it's the way i see
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things for me and for me vitamin
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obviously
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[Music]
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