What you need to know before getting a Tesla Powerwall - YouTube

Channel: Undecided with Matt Ferrell

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It took a while, but I finally got my Tesla Powerwall installed.
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There’s a few things I learned going through the process that might be useful if you’re
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thinking about getting a home battery installed.
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So let’s go through what you should know before getting a Tesla Powerwall.
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And ... my first impressions of it.
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I’m Matt Ferrell ... welcome to Undecided.
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First off, I want to thank all of you who used my Tesla referral code over the past
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couple of years.
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This Powerwall, as you can probably tell by the color, is a founders edition Powerwall
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that I earned through the referral program.
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So I only had to pay for the installation, but I’ll run through all of the costs and
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my first impressions in a bit.
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Getting this installed was a bit of a comedy of errors.
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There wasn’t one big gotcha or anything like that, but just a bunch of small road
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bumps and blips that collectively made it an incredibly frustrating, almost 4-month-long
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experience.
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And it’s what I learned from that that I want to share with you so you know what to
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look for, what to ask, and what to expect.
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While my path had some bumps, I’ve still got a fully functional Powerwall that’s
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already impressed me ... a lot.
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There’s two basic categories of things you should know about when installing a home battery.
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First is understanding what your energy requirements are.
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It’s the same thing you’d need to know if you’re getting solar, but with a battery
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system it’s important because of the electrical load it’s capable of supporting.
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If you don’t have an energy monitoring setup in your home, which I do with Sense, then
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you can get a ballpark figure by looking at your electric bill.
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Just look at the kWh used each month to see how much electricity you use on average.
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And then create a list of your major appliances and items around the house like HVAC, refrigerator,
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stove, pool, etc. and write down their power draw in watts.
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You can usually find this on labels on the device or online.
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If you add them all up, you’ll start to get a high level sense of what your home might
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use in kW if everything was turned on.
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There’s some good reasons why doing this is important.
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I’ve covered this in a previous video, but home batteries have limitations for their
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continuous power output.
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The Powerwall has a cap at 5kW continuous power with a peak load up to 7kW.
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These limitations are per Powerwall.
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So if you have 2, you’d have a max of 10kW continuous power output available.
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So you can probably see where I’m going with this.
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Take the number from your appliance tally and you’ll understand how many Powerwalls
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you might need to support 100% of your use if everything was running.
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In my case, one Powerwall isn’t quite a enough, but that’s totally fine.
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It really depends on what your goals are with battery backup.
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For me I’m most interested in providing a base level of backup to keep things like
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the heat going in the winter during a power outage, and to keep the refrigerator from
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defrosting.
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If you’re like me and your goal isn’t 100% coverage, there are a couple of options.
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One path is what I have here.
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This Powerwall is backing up my entire electric panel, so in theory everything in the house
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ā€œcouldā€ run during a blackout ... just not all together.
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The other path I could have taken was adding a sub panel which would carve out essential
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load circuits.
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That sub panel could have had my HVAC, refrigerator, and a few other items in there.
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Then the Powerwall would only backup that group and everything else in my house would
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go dark in a blackout.
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Going into this I had a basic understanding of that, but didn’t really think about it
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until I was well into the process of getting it installed.
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The installer I went with, which was not Tesla, didn’t walk me through my options.
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They were just going to do a straight install, but never even brought up other things I might
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want to consider doing.
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When I realized that was the case I started asking questions, which caused a brief delay
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to the installation date.
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This was my first road bump in the install process, which is why I bring it up.
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Make sure you do a bit of homework before you leap in because there’s no guarantee
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your installer is going to be proactive and inform you of your options up front.
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Whichever path you choose for your setup, you might want to consider getting a soft
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start for appliances like your HVAC.
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As I mentioned, the Powerwall has a peak load capacity of 7kW, but when you push into that
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zone, you risk tripping the Powerwall’s emergency shutdown if you overload it when
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something like your HVAC kicks on in a blackout.
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Major appliances like that can have a sizable spike in power draw when the motor kicks on,
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so a soft start can dramatically shave off that power spike.
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Some installers recommend doing that as par for the course.
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Mine didn’t, but I may add one down the road.
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Again, knowing this kind of thing up front means you can ask the right questions of your
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installer.
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And if you’re installing this with solar and want to ensure that your home can go indefinitely
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in a power outage, you need to make sure you’re balancing the battery’s power capacity with
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the output capacity of your solar panel system.
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If your solar panels can output more power than your battery can take in, the battery
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system will have to shut off the panels during a blackout at times to manage that intake.
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Otherwise it’s too much power for the battery to handle.
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The second category of things to be aware of is all around how prepared your home is
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to handle a Powerwall.
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And the first thing you have to look into is ... do you have a service disconnect switch?
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To my knowledge, I’ve never lived in a house with a separate service disconnect switch.
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It’s standard procedure for new homes, but all of the older homes I’ve lived in haven’t
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had one.
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They’re usually just gigantic switches near the power meter, or sometimes on the meter
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box itself.
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My house didn’t have one.
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The main circuit breaker in my panel was acting as the service disconnect too.
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Well, with a Powerwall, or any battery system for that matter, you’re going to need a
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service disconnect.
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That bit me in the butt when one of the electricians stopped by the night before the install to
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scope out the setup in person.
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He spotted the lack of a service disconnect right away, which delayed the project significantly.
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They had to coordinate with the electric company for shutting off the service temporarily and
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had to install a disconnect at the same time as the Powerwall.
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I’m still not sure why they didn’t include any questions about this in the self-evaluation
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form I filled out, or why nobody caught it in the photos I took.
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That’s the next big road bump that I experienced, which brings me back to asking a lot of questions
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up front.
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You can’t rely on your installer having procedures in place to mitigate that type
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of thing happening ... but in my opinion, a good installer should have that covered,
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like having a simple question about service disconnects in the self-evaluation.
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If it’s required, they should confirm you have it upfront.
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Happily, this next one wasn’t a road bump for me, but be sure you select a place with
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plenty of space.
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The Powerwall comes with a Gateway, which is what manages where the power goes.
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It’s the brain of the system.
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The gateway needs about 2 feet of width and 3 feet of height.
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And the Powerwall itself requires 4 feet by 5 feet for each Powerwall, and about 6 feet
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open in front of it.[^1] And you need a really good Wifi connection in the area of the Gateway
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or an available ethernet jack for a wired network connection.
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Overall, my installation experience was not great.
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It wasn’t one big thing that caused problems.
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It wasn’t one person’s fault that I got hit with lots of delays.
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It wasn’t 100% the installers fault ... and I’m not blameless in this either.
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The Powerwall arrived at my home on July 29th, but wasn’t installed and activated until
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November 20th.
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Almost 4 months.
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Some of my late questions caused delays.
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The lack of a service disconnect switch caused more delays.
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Some really bad communication issues with my installers left me in the dark for the
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better part of 7 weeks.
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They fixed that, but one of the giant issues behind the scenes was 2020 itself.
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COVID caused issues for my installer and made scheduling very tough.
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But my favorite moment of the whole thing.
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The day they installed the Powerwall the electrician discovered that there was a missing part ... a
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communications wire harness, which probably costs about a $1 (or less).
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So the whole thing was setup, but couldn’t be turned on for several more weeks because
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of that one tiny part.
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And when the final setup was completed a different electrician ran a new set of communication
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cabling on the outside of the conduit even though the previous electrician supposedly
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already ran some inside.
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I’m not thrilled about that ... but the system works.
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If I get a second Powerwall, I’ll most likely get that fixed up.
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But to be very clear, my experience isn’t normal and none of you should think this is
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what your experience will be like too.
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Since this was a referral reward, I was given the option of having Tesla install it, or
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selecting my own installer and they’d ship it to me directly.
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That’s the path I went.
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For all of you out there, your installer will show up with the Powerwall on the day they
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install it, so you won’t have a Powerwall sitting on your garage floor for months ... me
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... I chose my option ... poorly.
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I should have let Tesla do it.
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As for the cost, the installation cost $2,500 including the cost of installing the service
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disconnect switch.
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That would have made the total cost with the Powerwall and Gateway about $10,500.
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The price is going to vary based on your specific situation and what you want done, like having
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a sub-panel installed for essential load carve outs, and any other upgrades needed to support
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a home battery.
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I got installation quotes that ranged from the $2,500 I paid up to almost $7,000, so
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shop around.
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But how’s the Powerwall?
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Before I get to that, I’d like to thank Surfshark for sponsoring this video.
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Thanks to Surfshark and to all of you for supporting the channel.
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So how is the Powerwall?
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Well, it’s kind of awesome.
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I’ve only had it up and running since the end of November, but I’m super impressed
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by it all ready.
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If you’ve seen any of my solar panel videos, where I go in depth on how my system has been
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working out, you’ll know that the winter time is my lowest solar production.
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So this time of year isn’t going to keep my battery full by any stretch ... BUT ... I’m
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very excited for this as just a battery backup for winter power outages.
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Anyone that lives in the Northeast knows what I’m talking about.
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Nor’easters, freezing rain, strong winds, really heavy wet snow, it can all take down
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tree limbs and power lines, so power outages aren’t uncommon.
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In my area they might only last for a few hours, but we’ve had a couple that lasted
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for a day or two.
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The Powerwall has some really nice controls for managing this type of thing.
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I absolutely love the Tesla app UI for this, by the way.
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I’m mesmerized by the Power Flow screen that shows exactly where your energy is coming
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from and going.
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I can’t stop checking it out.
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I even figured out how to get it showing up in Apple Home.
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Anyway, in the app you can configure how the battery should work.
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There’s three basic modes: backup-only, self-powered, and advanced.
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Backup-only shouldn’t need an explanation.
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Self-powered, which is what I have it set to, will store excess solar power production
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for use when there isn’t sun.
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In here you can configure how much of the battery should be reserved for backup power.
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Since this is the lowest point of the year for me for solar production, and I want to
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maximize the backup potential for storms, I’ve set it to 50% for now.
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The Advanced option is really meant for people who have time-of-use rates.
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It will charge and discharge the battery to maximize savings for you.
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Where I am in Massachusetts, we don’t have time-of-use, so that’s not a good option
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for me.
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But within the first couple of weeks of having this up and running we got a really bad snow
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storm that came through.
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Really heavy, wet snow and high winds, which ended up knocking out power for lots of people
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around New England.
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We didn’t lose power, but I got to see Storm Watch in action for the first time.
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The system detected the storm warning and automatically charged my battery up to 100%
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the night before the storm and kept it there for the duration.
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Locked and loaded and ready to go.
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That alone made the long wait so worth it.
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It’s that type of automation for emergency backup that got me so excited for the Powerwall.
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There’s a lot more I could go into about this, but I’m going to wait until I’ve
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gone through the winter and gotten some better solar production as well.
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I’ve also applied to be part of a virtual power plant system with my Powerwall, so I’m
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hoping to be able share about that as well.
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Be sure to subscribe at hit the notification bell to not miss out on my full-on review
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of the Powerwall and my experiences with it.
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I hate being that YouTuber asking for you to ā€œhit that bellā€ ... can’t stand saying
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that ... but it’s the only way to be sure you don’t miss out on new videos.
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Only about 12% of you have done it by the way, so let’s see if we can get that up
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to 15% ... heck, let’s live a little ... 20%!
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Now jump into the comments and let me know what you think about the Powerwall or home
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batteries in general.
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Do you have one?
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Want one?
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If you liked this video be sure to check out one of the ones I have linked right here.
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Be sure to subscribe and hit the notification bell if you think I’ve earned it.
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And as always, thanks all of my patrons and to all of you for watching.
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I’ll see you in the next one.