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How to Paint a Room FAST | Paint Hacks for Homeowners - YouTube
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So today we’re going to give you seven painting
hacks on how to make your painting experience
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more efficient and faster because, let’s
face it, it’s something that’s absolutely
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needed in every home renovation. Whether you’re
going to be selling your property or you’re
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just remodeling your home, painting is always
a part of it. So I want to give you seven
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tips on how to make that easier for you.
So tip #1 is for repairing any holes or nail
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holes from pictures that you take off the
wall to use DAP DryDex. I really love using
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this product because it is fast drying. And
the biggest thing about it is that it doesn’t
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shrink or crack. So typically on a normal
installation, you have to do two coats of
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drywall mud to fill any type of hole. This
will eliminate that. It takes one time. And
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the nice thing about it is it goes on pink.
And then once it’s dry, it turns to a natural
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wood-filler look, so you know when you’re
ready to go and start priming. But its great
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because you don’t have to work twice the
amount of time to fill these holes. You can
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just putty it in, and then you’ll be able
to paint… this’ll turn to… actually,
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it’s starting to turn already. It’ll turn
to like a wood-filler look, and then you can
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just go ahead and prime that and be ready
to paint.
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So tip #2 is to use a large 18-inch nap roller
to roll your walls and ceilings. This is probably
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going to be the thing that saves you the most
time because, typically, normal roller pads
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are only 9 inches. So if you have twice that
distance, you’re going to be cutting down
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the amount of time it takes to apply that
paint. Now, this is one that’s made by Purdy.
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I bought an extension pole as well with it.
This will go up to about 8 feet. So this will
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make it easier to roll large rooms like this
that have cathedral ceilings. But applying
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the paint with a long roller like this is
going to save you basically half the amount
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of time with the regular roller.
So tip #3 is to use the proper nap size for
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the type of walls that you’re painting.
So most flat, smooth drywall walls, you want
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to use a 3/8-inch nap roller pad. And then
for anything textured, you want to go to a
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½-inch nap roller size. Main reason for this
is that if you use too big of a nap roller,
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you’re going to apply too much paint to
the wall, and it’s going to take longer
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for you to actually smooth out that paint
surface. But if you have a textured ceiling
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for say, the more nap, the more paint you’re
able to apply, and it’s going to be easier
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to fill in all the cracks and divots that
the textured surface has. So always use a
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½-inch nap roller for textured ceilings,
and 3/8-inch nap roller pads for smooth walls.
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So tip #4, I have to give a big shout out
to Idaho Painter who is here on YouTube, he’s
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the one who gave me the advice on this one,
and that is to use a corner roller pad. And
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basically all it is is a standard roller pad,
but it has the edge that’s completely covered
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by the fleece of the roller. You’re able
to cut in and roll all at the same time having
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a roller pad that has the side covered like
this. Typically, you always have to paintbrush
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the corners of a ceiling, but this eliminates
that step. So anything you can save a couple
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of minutes doing is well worth it. So thanks,
Idaho Painter, for this tip. And as you could
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see, it gets all the way into that corner.
It’s obviously smearing on the side wall,
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but we’re going to be cutting in the walls
with the regular paint, but this eliminates
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the step.
So tip #5 is to use drywall stilts to cut
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in the ceiling of the wall color that you’re
using. Being able to walk on stilts makes
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it a lot easier to walk around the room and
be more efficient with your painting, rather
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than getting up on a ladder and moving every
4 feet with that ladder, takes up time. Walking
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on stilts will allow you to do that all on
basically one motion and speed up the time
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of painting.
So we’re going to put some stilts on. This
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is going to really help out with cutting in
the ceiling and not having to use a ladder,
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essentially, to do all your cutting in. So
really, you just have two straps on them for
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your feet. Typically, I find that the bigger
boots are easier to wear when you’re doing
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this than using tennis shoes. You know, it
just kind of holds on there better. Any time
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I use tennis shoes, it’s really tough to
get everything anchored down properly. So
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I actually have a strap that’s missing on
the back, but… All right.
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So your stilts really allow you to get up
as if you’re just standing and be able to
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cut in. Really makes it a lot easier than
moving a ladder around. It’s a lot easier
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on your neck, too. You’re not looking up
as much.
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So the kind of brushes I like to use is primarily
Purdy brushes with the angled type where it
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has like a slant on the brush. And I typically
use about a 2 ½-inch brush. I think that
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gives the easiest amount of coverage and ability
to cut in. But the angled part of this brush
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allows me to get right into this corner and
just do full swoops.
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I think the real key of creating straight
lines with a paintbrush is using motions that
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are continuous rather than dabbing back and
forth. If you can get like a half an arm’s
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width stretch all on one swoop, it’ll keep
that line a lot straighter rather than just
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dabbing little pieces at a time. If you’re
dabbing things, it just makes it harder to
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keep nice, straight lines. So try to keep
your motions continuous with brushing, and
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that’ll allow you to cut in a lot easier.
Tip #6 is to use an oil-based primer for any
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water stains or stains that have come through
the drywall. Using an oil-based primer will
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ensure that it’s blocked and that you don’t
have to come back later to address any of
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the issues. The last thing you want to do
is use a water-based sealer that ends up still
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bleeding through, and you have to come back
and repaint. So it’s going to make things
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a lot more efficient for you if you start
out with an oil-based prime blocker. We actually
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specifically are using the Sherwin Williams
ProBlock Primer, and it’s an interior oil-based
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primer.
Okay, so we’re going to spot-prime these
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water stains with the ProBlocker. It’s basically
an oil-based primer. Really, the oil-based
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primer is going to be your best bet to block
out any stains. In my mind, I don’t see
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any reason to try to do an acrylic water-based.
Just go with the oil-based; you know it’s
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going to cover. So I always use a disposal
mini-brush for this because I don’t want
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to waste a whole roller. But obviously with
oil-based, you don’t want to use your nice
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paintbrush with it or you’re going to have
to really clean it up with acetone or mineral
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spirits.
So you could see how this turns to a natural
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color now, kind of like a wood-toned color.
So now it’s ready to go ahead and prime.
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So another great place to use this oil-based
primer are the knots on your wood. You can
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see how this is bleeding through. So if you
used oil-based on that, that’ll keep that
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stain from popping through.
So tip #7 is going to save you a significant
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amount of time, and it’s always something
that probably takes more time than painting
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all the walls, and that is to paint all your
doors. You always pretty much have to paint
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your doors when you paint all the walls. Otherwise,
it’s going to look unfinished. They came
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out with a great product that I think is going
to be really efficient for your time. It’s
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called the Stack Rack. And this kit allows
you to paint four doors, both sides, at once
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essentially. You’re really cutting down
the savings, like pretty much paint all the
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doors in a house in one day versus stacking
them and leaning them against the wall and
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taking several days to do. So use the Stack
Rack the paint your doors.
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And here’s a bonus tip for you: use a carpet
shield plastic film adhesive plastic to cover
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any carpet in your area. No matter how safe
or careful you are, the likelihood of you
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spilling paint on the carpet is very high,
so use a plastic carpet shield to protect
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your carpet.
Hey, if you like these tips, please give us
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a thumbs up. It helps other people out. So
give us a thumbs up.
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