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Solution Comp Vs Skwama Vs Futura Vs Theory: What is My Favorite Rock Climbing Shoes? (한글자막 있습니다!) - YouTube
Channel: HoseokClimb
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yes i'm gonna be answering one of the
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most commonly asked questions
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what is your favorite climbing shoes
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yeah so the first
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one i got here is solution comp
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squamous
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futures
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theories
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and i wear them for different
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situations and for different boulders
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the reason i have so many women
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models is because
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they don't produce
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much in my size these are the only
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options that's left for me has anyone
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ever told you that you're wearing girl
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shoes
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oh yeah i mean they're like oh why are
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you wearing uh girl shoes is this
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because you're short
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i mean
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i asked them i asked la sportiva korea
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to give me like men's shoes and they're
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like oh i'm sorry we're uh you know
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we're out of the size
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so yeah okay so we're gonna talk about
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solution comps let's move this
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okay sizing first
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i wear
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shoe size
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245 mils
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which is
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38 eu
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and these are
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36 eu
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which means that i go
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downsized by three
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right
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so they are the most stiff shoes in line
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which means that their downturn is
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really just aggressive also the rubbers
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are really hard which makes them really
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great on overhang climbs
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and
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for outdoor boulders on smaller edges
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it feels really solid
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since the downturn is you know that
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aggressive it feels like you're gripping
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with your toe it can be very accurate it
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can be very accurate
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and like you know aiming
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your toe into a specific hold
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one of the biggest issues
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on older version of solutions was the
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heel cup because the heel cup was like
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too big
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as evolving into solution comp but they
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changed it a little narrower to fit
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more people including me
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also the heel hooks
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better on
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cut holes
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than on
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like flat surface for some reason i
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don't know why
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the shoes are not so flexible they are
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really good on small edges
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but maybe not so
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you know not the best on
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flat surface
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i prefer other shoes when the climb is
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these modern style
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volumes so i personally wear this when
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when it's
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overhang like when i train on the moon
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board
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i'll be wearing this for sure
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if it's an outdoor project
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i'll be wearing this as well i mean
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these days recently i kind of prefer
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like
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comfortable shoes and they're not so
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comfortable you know
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they're actually notorious for being not
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comfortable
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so
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now i don't wear them as much
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i wear them only for
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poor training
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when i really want to send something
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hard project
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on the moon board other than that
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you know i have either friends
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number two
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[Laughter]
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okay uh scomas
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okay so the order of stiffness is
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actually this
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most
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stiff
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and the softest
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so this is actually
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uh falls in the middle not so stiff
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not so soft
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you know
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which makes
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squamous very
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i would say versatile functional on
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most situations um when i first tried
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them
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i couldn't see any
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bad thing on these like i couldn't see
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the best thing on these
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but
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what's good about it is
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this doesn't really have weakness does
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this have like the strongest toe i don't
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think so does this have the the
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strongest heel i don't think so it's the
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most comfortable shoes i don't think so
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but
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every every bit of it is better than the
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average jack-of-all-trades yes
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i use this for
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like i don't know daily training on
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regular gym sessions
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like you know
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flat surface volume wooden volumes you
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know
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um and especially when i don't want to
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like
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change the shoes
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you're having a gym session
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you go
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slap climb and then overhang
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coordinations you know
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you have so many variations in style
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right sometimes you don't want to like
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change shoes every time for for every
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boulder so then i go with these
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heel hook wise i think these are
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so
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if i compare these two
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like etching
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toe edging wise solution comes like way
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better
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than this
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but
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heel hook wise i prefer this
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uh he looks really
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like
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solid on
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most types of holes
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so yeah
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that was commas okay
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what are those
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they're okay these are uh futuras
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and
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they are actually
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my recent crush
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stiffness wise
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these also fall into the middle section
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like not so soft not so stiff but a
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little softer than scomas
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so breaking period is much shorter than
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squamous it takes about
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actually one day
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just just a session that's why i prefer
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these as i'm getting older you know like
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i don't want to torture myself with
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breaking period so yeah maybe that's why
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also same as squamous like
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with these
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i wouldn't usually
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change to other shoes for boulders
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illnesses something at my limit
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and i'm like projecting it unless i need
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a like
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mighty
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edging power of solutions i wouldn't
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really change
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to other shoes
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they're
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my recent go-to
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crush favorite shoes
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among these four i think futuras
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i feel most confident
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in heel hook
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in features and also
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the lacing is same as
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solution comps so it
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breaks pretty easily
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but
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easily as in like
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if you go outdoor and you talk on like
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a
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rock surface and it scratches you know
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and if you do it repeatedly of course
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it breaks easily
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compared to other shoes but then
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here i also use
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dental floss
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yeah so the front edge here they say
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it's like
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the it's like new technology
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uh on la certiva
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uh which is called
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no edging right it's basically
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i don't know what they did
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i can only tell you my personal opinion
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actually and personal feeling on these
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is i actually feel no difference
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only thing about this is
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when the foothole gets really small
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and edgy
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you know
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these are not actually that good then i
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use solution comps
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but
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on most types of footholds it works
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just perfect
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the only issue i have in these shoes is
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the toe hook because you see the rubber
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is not like
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covering
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much here
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on the toe box so
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when you go
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uh deep in tow hook
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it's not
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as solid as other
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sportiva shoes
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like
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you see this when you see this solution
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comes as
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almost uh
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it's double
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in rubber coverage right
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like this
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but for some reason they only cover like
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a
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small area so toe hooks not really solid
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other than that
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they're
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they're really good comfortable
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uh easy break in
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[Music]
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good on heel hooks
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and
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i think that's about it actually on
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these okay okay so these are
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uh the last ones theories
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they're the
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softest shoes
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in line so the breaking period is just
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nothing i mean as soon as you wear it
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it feels like socks it's really soft and
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really comfortable takes about 30
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minutes to break in actually i wear them
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when route setting
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you know
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really comfortable
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easy and easy out
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since it's soft
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you can be very flexible with your feet
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so it's good on slip climbs you know
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modern style
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comp sidewall bouldering with a flat
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surface
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but since the rubber is like really thin
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maybe too thin for my liking personally
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it's
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not the best use for outdoor bouldering
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i i've tested it outside
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uh the rubber is
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too thin actually so when you're
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stepping on
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on a rock
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you kind of
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feel the
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like roughness of the rock
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like onto your onto your toe skins it's
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kind of
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it hurts sometimes also surprisingly
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theories are really
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great in toe hooks because you know the
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rubber coverage is really huge in indoor
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climbs i really
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enjoyed to looking in them and there was
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this outdoor boulder that required like
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this intensive to hook sequence so i was
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like oh maybe i would try them on that
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boulder as well i took these to that
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boulder and tried to move
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surprisingly enough dirt hooks wasn't as
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good in outdoors
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so i immediately changed to
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solution compass
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so i personally wear them
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exclusively
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for indoor climbs
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and when my feet
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are really tired you know
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and i feel
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like i need the most uh you know
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comfortable shoes then i take these
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also the heel hook
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the rubbers
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are too thin the heel hook gets really
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aggressive it peels up pretty easily so
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i'm not a fan of that but yeah for
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regular gym sessions i would take this
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it's just really comfortable you know if
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you can wear
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one
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model for the rest of your life which
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one would it be oh
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okay that's really uh
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the nature of this video
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it's definitely this
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right definitely not this
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and it's definitely not
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these
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either
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actually this one
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[Laughter]
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no yeah
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actually this one
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um
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because
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you know the edging power is just like
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incomparable like the best
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and yes they're aggressive and it's
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painful to wear and yeah you know etc
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etc
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but whatever they're good
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yeah and most of my projects are like
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really
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steep
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and aggressive
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on your
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uh it relies on your toe most of the
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time so because i'm not a comp climber
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you know
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yeah on slap climbs
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it's not very advantageous but still
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if you're strong enough i think i can
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yeah still slap climb on in these so
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yeah this will be my favorite actually
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la sportiva has this
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newest model
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mantras
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i've had an opportunity to try them a
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few times
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they also have this no edge technology
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here which feels pretty
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much like
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futures so i like them they're like
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slip-ons easy and
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easy out
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what i found unique about them is
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although they're like slip-on shoes
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they're pretty aggressive for
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slip-ons
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which
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is for my liking actually i like
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aggressive shoes thank you everybody for
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watching
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and
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stay tuned
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for the next derrick's edition
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[Music]
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