馃攳
Building the 1/5000 Star Destroyer Model Kit! (Part 2) - YouTube
Channel: Adam Savage鈥檚 Tested
[0]
everybody don't from tested and Kate
from test welcome back to this mini
[4]
model behavior series where we are
putting together a stardestroyer a1 5000
[12]
scale and I start or part of their Star
Wars line this is a very highly detailed
[18]
model stream Lee detailed so impressed
by the the parts are coming out of this
[24]
it's like Bandai has the stuff that was
144 scale your X wins and your tiny
[30]
million Falcons they also have like 170
second scale perfect grade Mullane
[34]
falcon I think this has the detail that
although of course it is
[37]
stars joiner so one five thousand right
so this is part two or hopefully gonna
[43]
finish the build today if you haven't
seen part one please go back and watch
[47]
that and that's where we've prepped all
the pieces and got them painted and then
[51]
experimented with putting on as techie
yes which was so much fun it's masking
[57]
and also then working with the color
choices to get these two tones of light
[63]
gray yeah lightest of Gray's if you're
using to me a page what's the insignia
[68]
white is what we signe away yeah well
and then that the the standard light
[73]
gray primer yes as the base coat
underneath it and they're just so thin
[77]
it went on perfectly anything thicker
than that you're gonna lose all this
[80]
really amazing detail in here so today
we are going to do the assembly there's
[85]
a whole lighting system inside for this
version of the model kit and we're gonna
[89]
be trying to put that together with the
goal minimizing light leaks yes which is
[96]
a thing that can happen if you're not
using fiber optics and then also we're
[100]
gonna be finishing with a weathering
pass at the end to accentuate all those
[105]
details and panel lines so got
construction manuals here I think the
[109]
first step is gonna be setting up the
lighting rig yep and we'll get to that
[114]
and check in when we have some some show
and you can measure up seven centimeters
[119]
there flat and then I'll wrap it around
reasonable yeah alright let's check the
[130]
LEDs
nice nice nice oh good oh good
[137]
Oh see makes total sense now these are
the engine LEDs that's why they get more
[143]
blue okay yes and the mystical bridge
and the yes okay cool cool cool
[149]
superstructure all right our LED light
harness is done really excited to
[154]
install that and now it's time to put
things together the first thing we're
[158]
putting together is gonna be looks like
the stand and so Kate's gonna take the
[162]
role of cutting things from the sprue
yeah you're using godhand
[168]
is it amazing they're like butter
yeah they're their high-end nippers just
[174]
for Bandai style model kids and Adam
bought a set totally worth it in our
[179]
opinion of course we're gonna snip it
and then do a little bit of a cleanup
[183]
yeah and pieces and then I'll get to
assembly and put the space together like
[194]
you don't feel any resistance
[223]
so it looks like we're gonna start with
this one okay what a snip yep
[231]
sir where's that 21 21 this goes over
the center here
[246]
let's put in exactly where they want me
to which is right there above this but
[253]
it's right here and these are better the
walls of this cavity and then when I
[257]
flip this around okay this is super cool
before we started putting this together
[267]
we talked about wanting to kind of block
out the light plate like lightly with
[273]
something we knew we wouldn't concern
about and we were gonna think about
[276]
maybe cutting up some strips of gaff
tape yep and it turns out as we're
[281]
putting this together they've thought of
some of that always yeah and there are
[285]
these stickers here black stickers that
then can wrap around some of the the
[292]
inserts right so you just built a little
box and installed it and now they know
[296]
that that box has a few light weeks
around there essentially yeah you've got
[300]
a custom sticker that's already cut to
size with the flaps that fold around
[304]
that to block the light from coming out
that's really great so great and we can
[307]
actually show a little bit of that
because if we turn on the LEDs and put
[312]
it behind the box we can actually see
that yeah there would be there would be
[317]
lightly yep and so that's a very
thoughtful
[349]
or it really issued some part of this
assembly already super fun parts are
[353]
really clean the Tamiya two coats and we
put on some of these pieces actually I
[358]
think it's a help with the tolerances
them yeah walk out the press fit in
[362]
exactly it's a really tight fit and it's
really cool like not only do we have
[367]
some of this black tape that prevents
light leaks but entire pieces as well I
[372]
think our design here to kind of channel
the lights yeah and there's also
[377]
reflective tape so they've really
thought this out really well
[381]
one thing we want to do though because
in photos of the original filming
[386]
miniatures the lighting is an all single
tone right there are a few spots where
[391]
you see some really cool like warmer red
light exactly so we want to put that in
[396]
here or not doing fiber optics so one of
the things we've run online but people
[400]
have done for this model kit is kind of
tint with the windows with their own gel
[406]
yeah instead of using a tiny piece of
gel plastic what we're gonna do is just
[411]
use some yeah we're gonna take white
glue which normally dries clear it's you
[416]
know everybody has it it's non-toxic
easy to work with and I have just been
[421]
adding some clear to me a paint to it to
tint it and it gives you a really good
[427]
you know
see-through red appearance that it's
[432]
like really easy you put it in you wait
for it to dry and then it really adds
[436]
something nice and it's gonna be such a
thin layer the light's still gonna be
[440]
able to yep blast through it and it's
another place where you can get creative
[444]
because there's no guide for where to
put Ray's color of lights we're not to
[449]
put a time to entire swathes of windows
yeah point here and there again just to
[454]
break up that lighting scheme and so
you'll be working on that while I'll be
[458]
moving on and actually doing more on
this harness to prepare it for inserting
[462]
the ship
[602]
I think we're about to close up the
stardestroyer
[619]
get to the superstructure on the top of
bridge we're again flabbergasted so
[626]
impressive the engineering the amount of
detail the channels the score lines
[631]
showing you where to put the stickers
it's just it's really fantastic the
[635]
wiring of the lights was really
intricate too you know they gave you
[640]
this I think this actually lives the
same lighting impact that's in the
[642]
Millennium Falcon Oh
so they reuse that so the wires are long
[646]
much longer than you need for the cavity
of the Star Destroyer so they gave you
[650]
lots of tape to shorten things up exact
measurements of how to bundle in down to
[656]
the millimeter totally and then places
where you can tape them to the top and
[661]
bottom parts of these frames and the
frames actually box the light in well we
[668]
thought we were gonna have to be
combating a lot of light leakage but in
[671]
the test when we're looking at it like
I'm not seeing much yeah so we're leave
[675]
the lights on for the rest of the build
because why not they look gorgeous so in
[681]
a second I'm going to put these on Bam
and bam so the stars short is lit up or
[691]
check out the engine light so cool that
goes in there and like Kate said to
[703]
check out the sweet sweet engine lights
and bridge lights here so this it's
[708]
closed up and we're literally at last
two pages and the instructions for
[712]
assembly going to build that bridge then
with weather
[774]
so there you have it one technically
assembled Star Destroyer it's gorgeous
[780]
that's so good but we're not done
because we need to accentuate the panel
[786]
lines in my opinion you're never done
till you've done it even the mildest
[790]
weathering pack and we're discussing
this because it technically it's in
[794]
space don't have the same tire in space
aging that you would have but you know
[800]
there's gonna be some type of engine
burn we want to have the contrast
[805]
they're so much like we said in the
beginning of these shallow pieces of
[809]
paneling what's our approach because we
could there's so many different ways
[813]
right um now one of the things that we
were thinking here is normally I would
[818]
use some sort of a liquid wash but that
pools in a way that really evokes
[823]
gravity so I thought and especially
because we want to be really mild that
[827]
we would do a powder weathering pass one
of the things I really like to do is use
[832]
these milk pigment powders and they come
in a whole array of colors this is my
[837]
final pass on the blimp weathering was
done with these so what I've done here
[841]
is just to test it out I did you know a
solution a mixture of black and white to
[847]
give us a good gray and
my technique normally I would use a big
[852]
acid brush this thing is so small you
don't want to I take a dry brush try to
[858]
knock some stuff off of there you do a
bit of a brush on top then immediately
[863]
take a clean brush knock some of that
off as much off as you can and you'll
[869]
notice that it's actually really heavy
so I go in with a wet cloth and try and
[874]
wipe off as much from the surface as
possible it's gonna only leave behind
[877]
something in the crack so that's what we
want also while we were very impressed
[882]
by the the light blocking systems that
were putting the kit including these
[888]
plastic shells and also that black tape
like you see for example along the sides
[894]
here it's pretty good I don't see a lot
of warping yeah especially the back this
[901]
clamshell here there would normally be a
lot of leakage you only seen the engines
[906]
that's very impressive the
superstructure itself from the bridge
[910]
has a little bit of warping so you can
see it popping off a little bit on the
[916]
top of there so we want to do is kind of
to put in your own black tape yeah to
[921]
seal it up and something to keep in mind
if you're going to use black tape to
[925]
block out light take a look at the back
of the tape because especially something
[929]
like black gaff tape might be black on
the surface it's white on the bottom so
[932]
find maybe a black paper tape where it's
just black both sides so why don't I
[937]
start on the superstructure and you can
start on the ship maybe start on the
[941]
bottom until you figure out the
processor we're happy with because we'll
[945]
see that less and then we'll slowly move
our way towards the top so I started to
[950]
notice that as I was brushing off the
excess pigment it was just wanting to
[955]
smear around there cuz it really is just
trying to grab onto every surface it can
[959]
and then especially when you put the wet
rag on to it you're you're taking a dry
[963]
pigment adding liquid that makes paint
so my new strategy is I took a very fine
[969]
brush and I'm very specifically going
over the areas I want like especially
[975]
these panel lines so I get them in
trying to go only where I want them to
[980]
go then I take a blowing tool you can
have an air hole
[983]
was candy here whatever you want I guess
you can just blow it with your mouth
[986]
and I'm slowing off the excess that way
there's no surface contact you're not
[991]
smearing it across and then anything
left on top you can very lightly use
[995]
your wet cloth to get off I think it's a
much more subtle look and I'm really
[1000]
happy with it
[1089]
and it's done okay so much fun it was a
lot of fun and what a difference all the
[1096]
little bits of work oh yeah it's hard
not to go extra heavy and I honestly I
[1101]
think we could go a bit heavier on this
but we wanted to keep it light showcase
[1107]
off the beautiful craftsmanship that
this kit came with totally the as
[1112]
teching was a really fun and the
weathering past really freeform I am
[1119]
sold on this pigment powder yeah isn't
it great I think like if we're not going
[1124]
for what you said the droopiness things
kind of accumulating then that makes it
[1131]
look like it's in it's like a model
miniature that's been sitting in storage
[1134]
for you know 35 years yeah a lovely
lovely kit that's the Bandai one 5000
[1141]
scale Star Destroyer there is a version
of this that does not include the lights
[1146]
or the clear parts and we didn't end up
using the clear parts by through the
[1150]
lighting kit if you don't want to go
with fiber-optics is totally amazing
[1154]
definitely worth it it's so gorgeous yes
gorgeous and the holes are in both kits
[1160]
so if you want to use your own lighting
you still get the benefit of the molds
[1164]
having the the holes in them we'll be
back with more model behavior projects
[1168]
in the future more model making projects
I've you've got other VanDyke it's
[1172]
yourself we'd love to see them in the
comments below but and that's we'll see
[1176]
you next time
[1179]
you
Most Recent Videos:
You can go back to the homepage right here: Homepage